"Wherever you watch the sunset, the sun goes down the same way. But many find it beautiful at their location perhaps of the people they were with or nice things that happened on that day. It’s a feeling of great joy. I believe if I capture a sunset shot of South Ninepin Island, I am telling you a story. It would be as if I watched the sunset with you and that's enough for me to savor for an entire year!”

「在任何地方看到的日落都是一樣的，太陽都是這樣下降，但不同人覺得那裡很美，可能是因為當天陪伴在旁的人，可能因為當天發生的事，拼湊而成完美幸福的感覺。如果我現在拍下一張南果洲的日落，我可以說出一個故事，我是跟你一起看的，那都夠我回味一年了」

South Ninepin Island or Tung Kwo Chau is in the southeast of Hong Kong. One of the islands located in the Kwo Chau Archipelago, consisting of Tai Chau, Tai Chau Mei and Shan Ling Kok, with North Kwo Chau and East Kwo Chau nearby. As the saying goes, "Admire rocks at North Kwo Chau and marvel at caves at South Kwo Chau". In fact, there are plenty of sea caves, dens, and hollows to see on South Kow Chau, but much depends on the timing, location, and travel companions when you get here. We were blessed with great weather when we visited the island for two days and one night.

南果洲位於香港東南面，是果洲群島其中一個島嶼，由大洲、大洲尾及山嶺角組成，旁邊還有北果洲、東果洲，以上地方我都去過啦，往後再跟大家介紹。俗話說「北果觀岩、南果賞洞」，由於南果洲有大量海蝕洞、隧道、拱門等，要到這裡真的要看天時地利人和，而那兩天一夜我們真是被上帝眷顧的子女！

I checked with the observatory one day before our trip. It forecasted there would be an easterly wind of force 2-3. Conditions perfect to explore caves on South Ninepin Island! It just so happened that SplitdyBoat, the boat hiring and visitor pairing platform we founded in Hong Kong, had a boat going the next day. This time for me and Heng! We packed up and off we went but because we were in such a hurry, a mishap occurred. Read this article to the end to find out what happened! Now when I look back, I am surprised how we survived those two days!

前一天查看天文台，顯示翌日是吹東風2-3級，還不是風平浪靜最適合到南果洲進行洞穴探險嗎？剛好我們創辦的香港夾船平台SplitdyBoat翌日就有船前往，多我和恒兩位不多！我們忙忙收拾行裝準備出發，正因為太急了往後發生悲慘的事，大家一定要看到最後....現在回想，那兩天我們是怎樣撐下去的！

We decided to start from Po Toi O in Clearwater Bay, which is the closest to North and South Kwo Chau and hence the boat fare is the cheapest. We rented a canoe from the local store and the boatman helped to put the canoe onto his speedboat and we were on the island in 15 minutes! The boatman docked at a rocky beach named Ma Wan and let us get off the speedboat. There is in fact a clear path that leads right to the beach. However, as we had a canoe with us, we had to travel by water. We saw some elderly friends who had way too much stuff and so we acted as a water UBER to pick them up! The water quality was good with crystal clear visibility up to 5-8 meters. Facing the beach is the famous Tiger's Mouth Cave, which runs through the center of South Ninepin Island. I wonder how strong do the waves have to be and how long does it take for the cave to erode like this?

我們去清水灣的布袋澳出發，這裡最近南北果洲，所以船費最便宜，我們在該店租借了獨木舟，船家幫我們放上快艇，輕輕鬆鬆15分鐘就到達了。船家停靠在名為媽環的沙灘岩石讓我們下船，只需沿路往上攀一邊，就有清晰的路徑接駁到沙灘。我們有獨木舟當然用水路囉～有些年長的朋友拿了太多東西，我們還充當水上UBER來回接他們一程呢！當天的水質真的好到不行，像玻璃水一樣，能見到達5-8米。沙灘迎面而來是全南果洲最有名的海蝕洞-虎口大洞，貫穿了南果洲的島中心，到底要多強力的海浪，多長的時間才能沖蝕到這樣？

It was probably because the weather was so hot at 34°C that we were losing our bearings. The small grassy area where we would have camped was just a few steps away from the beach. However, we took a wrong turn toward the left side of the rock formation and went in full circle! The hardest part was we had to carry drinking water in our left hand and shower water in our right hand with camping bags on our backs. We were already drenched in sweat just from dragging the canoe onto the beach! All we wanted was to plunge into the water to cool ourselves off. On arrival, the camping site had about 4 or 5 tents backed by Tung Tsui Shan. There is also a Tin Hau Temple at the top of the mountain with some statues for fishermen to worship.

可能是因為當天氣溫度高達34度，我們意識不太清楚，原本可以露營的小草地距離沙灘只是幾步之遙，我們卻走了左邊的岩石，兜了一大個圈！最辛苦是要左手拿飲用水，右手拿沖身水，還背著露營包，單是把獨木舟拖上沙灘，我們已大汗淋漓，狠不得立刻衝下水降溫。露營的位置大概放到4-5個營帳，背靠東嘴山，又稱東心墩，走到山頂有一座天后廟，只有幾個神像，供來往的漁民參拜。

After setting up our tent, we took time to go out and explore on the canoe! We started out on the north side of South Ninepin Island. We passed by a stone chamber along Shek Mei Tau, which could accommodate around 10 people. It seems there is nothing special from a distance, but upon entering, you feel cool inside and could see the door of the Temple from afar. We even joked that this was the only shady spot on the island. We considered spending the night here but believed we would be bitten by mosquitoes all night! If you are not good at water activities, the above route can also be reached on foot.

設好營帳後我們就把握時間出發去獨木舟探索了！我們先往南果洲北面起步，先經過石尾頭旁的石室，可容數十人，遠看沒什麼特別，但進去後感到混身涼快，還可遠眺觀佛堂門。我們還開玩笑說這是全南果洲唯一陰涼的位置，可考慮在此過夜，但相信一定被蚊蟲咬死。如果大家不善長水上活動，以上路線都可登山到達。

Rowing ahead from the stone chamber, you start to notice many large and small sea caves eroded by nature. On the canoe, you can feel huge currents which could push you away for a few meters and watch waves crash against the rocks at a height of 3-4 meters. It is easy to analyze these caves with modern geography but hundreds of years ago, these strange landforms on the island were depicted in ancient books including the "Ji Yuan Lu" and "Guangdong Fang Zhi" with a story passed down generations about three dragons. According to legend, these three evil dragons caused havoc and disrupted the livelihoods of people in the local community. Later, the Goddess of Tin Hau worshipped by the residents tamed the three dragons. The dragons were scattered around the mouth of the Pearl River, with part of their heads sealed on South Ninepin Island and their bodies in a sea cave. As a modern person, I smiled with respect after hearing this, but after seeing the power of the sea erosion, I began to believe that the forces of nature were scarier than the dragons.

室再向前划，就會開始見到南果洲大大小小的海蝕洞。在海上漂浮著感受到巨浪的沖刷，一來一回的已可把人推開幾米，看著岩石邊一起一落的浪快，高低起跌有3-4米，這一秒看到外露的石頭，下面就被巨浪掩蓋。用現代的地理知識解構這些海蝕洞一目了然，但在幾百年前，南果洲這些奇形地貌在《稽原略》及《廣東方志》等古書有載，流傳了一個關於三條龍的故事。相傳民間有三條龍作惡，生靈塗炭，民不聊生。來後人民信奉的天后娘娘收復了三龍，再將龍體散落珠江口四周，其中一部分的龍頭封印在南果洲，而龍身就是海蝕洞。雖然作為現代人聽後只能尊敬微笑，但見識了海蝕的威力後，我開始有幾分相信它們比龍更可怕。

The first thing we saw in front of us was a wind tunnel which looked like a shark's mouth, with long red and greenish rocks on the left and right sides. Imagine its tongue with drops of water dripping down from the top. We were like bait inside a shark's mouth about to be swallowed up! I thought this was the end. It turned out to be a cave of dozens of meters, straight to the other side of the island. If not for the light coming through, I would not have believed it! We entered inside from the far left. Wow, it felt like rafting in a water park, as if we were on a deep adventure. However, this time there was no track underneath, only chaotic rocks against unstructured waves. If we were not careful, we would capsize the canoe! We may enter and never exit! We carefully entered an intersection of the cave and saw the light behind us. To avoid waves from pushing against us, we rushed to the exit on the right which was absolutely thrilling!

面前第一個看到是的迴流洞，外型像一個鯊魚的嘴巴，左右兩旁有鮮紅漸綠的長岩石，像是它的舌頭，上頭看有水珠一滴一滴下來。我們就像它的囊中物，快要被吞噬掉。本以為就這樣呢，原來它是一條長達幾十米的隧道，直通島的另一面，如果不是那一絲光透過來，我還不相信這件事呢！好戲一浪接一浪，兜過一個小圈，我們到達了三叉洞，故名思義就是分開三個出口的海蝕，我們從最左邊的進入，天呀，真有一種在主題公園玩漂流記的感覺，仿佛進行地深探險記，但這次船下沒有軌道，只有雜亂的石頭，無章的海浪，一不小心就翻艇或有入無出的機會。我們小心翼翼的進到洞的分叉口，看到背後的光線，相信就是與迴流洞相通的。為免海浪把我們越退越進，我們趕快從右邊的出口離開，驚險刺激得很呢！

After exploring the cave, we continued to paddle around the island back to the beach, passing the back of the Tiger's Mouth Cave, which was more intimating than the front! Finally, we reached two sides of rows of rock that were tens of meters high and felt like we were in a Jurassic movie. Wow! If this was a huge bird flying in the sky, I would have thought it was a flying dinosaur! Imagine the theme music playing… haha!

經過一翻驚心動魄的洞穴探索，我們繼續圍著島划回沙灘，途經虎口大洞的背面，跟前方比多了一分震撼。最後我們在一對高幾十米的石排中穿駿，又有一種置身於侏羅紀電影的感覺。真的！如果這是有大鳥在天上飛過，我真以為是飛龍呢～背景音樂請響起，哈哈！

Just as we were lying on the canoe waiting for the sunset, I remembered with shock that we didn't bring any gas stove! How are we to cook? On a whim, Heng decided to paddle ahead and ask for help from people on board a nearby yacht but unfortunately, no one had one. They gave us some dried food instead. Luckily, the food we brought this time could be eaten raw. These include tomatoes, corn in a carton etc. We must make do with a vegan meal this time which is going to be healthy for our guts!

正當我們躺在舟上等待日落來臨的時候！糟糕！我記起我們沒有帶瓦斯爐，怎樣煮食？恒靈機一觸，決定提起勇氣划向前方的遊艇客求助，可惜每個人都沒有...只能送我們一些乾糧。幸好我們這次帶來的食物都可以生吃的，如番茄呀～盒裝玉米等等，就來一場蔬菜清腸胃的大餐吧！

After a long day of paddling, we were tired, took a shower and walked to the bottom of Tin Hau Temple to wait for the sunset. I once heard a YouTuber say that he didn't understand why someone compared Hong Kong's scenery to foreign countries. I would have argued with him after hearing this. I would say out loud that Hong Kong is in no way inferior to foreign countries, but I did not. On the contrary, I carefully thought that…

划了一整天我們都累了，用水淋浴後我們走到天后廟下方等待日落。早前聽到一位YouTuber說，他不理解為什麼有人將香港的風景跟外國比較，在他眼中香港拍馬都追不上別人。我聽了這番話理應跟他爭論的，因為我一向都大大聲說香港不輸外國的呀，但我沒有。反而，我仔細思考...

Is it even fair to compare landscapes? Some people say the sunset in Greece is the most beautiful, some say Bolivia, but I say this one on South Ninepin Island in Hong Kong is the most gorgeous!

其實風景是可以比較的嗎？有人說希臘的日落最美，有人說是玻利維亞，而我卻說是眼前這個-香港的南果洲，最美。

"Wherever you watch the sunset, the sun goes down the same way. But many find it beautiful at their location perhaps of the people they were with or nice things that happened on that day. It’s a feeling of great joy. I believe if I capture a sunset shot of South Ninepin Island, I am telling you a story. It would be as if I watched the sunset with you and that's enough for me to savor for an entire year!” said Heng.

「在任何地方看到的日落都是一樣的，太陽都是這樣下降，但不同人覺得那裡很美，可能是因為當天陪伴在旁的人，可能因為當天發生的事，拼湊而成完美幸福的感覺。如果我現在拍下一張南果洲的日落，我可以說出一個故事，我是跟你一起看的，那都夠我回味一年了」恒說。

As the warm sunlight dimmed and replaced by the haze of a red sky, we hugged and gazed at the ever-changing colors of the sky, hoping that this moment would freeze in time.

太陽暖和的光線漸暗，換上漫天紅霞，我們相擁凝視天空不斷不轉變色彩，心中期昐這分秒請停放半刻。

At night, we were the only ones on South Ninepin Island. After dinner, we chatted and heard sounds of the Marine Department patrolling on the sea. Just as we were about to climb into our tent for a rest, Heng stopped me and gestured that the moon behind our backs had secretly risen from sea level right next to Tung Tsui Shan, a sight I had never seen before.

晚上的南果洲只有我們兩，用完晚餐後我們就聊聊天，不時聽到海面傳來海事處巡邏的聲音。正當我們想攀進帳裡休息，恒卻大叫我出來，原來我們一直背對著的月亮，偷偷地從海平面升起，就正正在東嘴山旁，這個景像我這麼大個人還是第一次見。

The next morning, we walked up to the top of Tai Chau Shan to watch the sunrise. Fishing boats sailed by in the reflection of the rising sun's rays. The next day in South Ninepin Island was leisurely. We went snorkeling and laid on the grass looking at Tseung Kwan O, which is dozens of kilometers away. I remember that it was only a few years ago this day, I was dressed in a suit, handing out flyers and chatting with neighbors on the street. Today I am on a deserted island with messy and oily hair and bare feet. The only thing that hasn't changed is that I haven't left here. This place – Hong Kong is my home.

翌日的早上，我們慢條斯理的走上大洲山山頂看日出，魚船在太陽的光線反射下駛過，每分每秒都像一幅油畫。第二天在南果洲的行程就是悠閑，無所事事的去浮潛，或是躺在草上望著距離幾十公里遠的將軍澳，幾年前的這個清晨，我穿得西裝骨骨地在街上派傳單，與街坊聊天，今天的我，卻不理髮絲淩亂油槽，赤腳踏在一個荒島上，唯一沒變的是我沒有離開這裡，這個地方還是我的家-香港。

Photography: @hansleytravel 

"If the Bermuda Triangle is the curse of North Atlantic Ocean, Hong Kong's Waglan Island is the curse of the Pacific Ocean. How many ships perished in the sea and how many lives were saved by the lighthouse on the island?”

“如果說百慕達三角是大西洋的詛咒，那麼香港的橫欄島就是太平洋的另一個詛咒。島上的燈塔拯救了多少船隻，拯救了多少人的生命？”



At the southeastern Hong Kong, most people will only notice Po Toi Island, where is just like the countryside of Japan, but they don’t know that there is a long shaped and story-filled island behind called Waglan Island. In the 19th century. Waglan Island was named because its shape is like a straight line, which can block wind and waves.

在香港東南部，大多數人只會注意到蒲台島，那裡就像日本的鄉村一樣，但他們不知道後面有一個長長的形狀和充滿故事的島嶼，叫做橫欄島。 在 19世紀，橫欄島之所以得名，是因為它的形狀像一條直線，可以阻擋風浪。

There is rumored on the Internet said this is a restricted area. We checked the legal information and found that Waglan Island is under the management of the Marine Department. Ships cannot enter the waters 100 meters away from Waglan Island without approval. In order to explore this mysterious island, we took an extreme method to visit, that is, getting off the boat 100 meters away from the island and then swim to the island. We have 5 peoplei in total, including my father. The original pier was destroyed by typhoon Mangkhut in 2019, so we have to land on the nearby stone steps. Waglan Island is composed of two small islands with a difference of ten meters. All the buildings are located on the east side of the island. We decided to start here. Going up the stairs, you will see a set of cracked rails on the pier stone that is being repaired. What is this used for?

網上有傳言稱這是禁區。我們查閱了法律資料，發現橫欄島由海事處管理。未經批准，船隻不得進入距離橫欄島100米的水域。為了探索這個神秘的島嶼，我們採取了一種極端的方法去參觀，那就是在距離島100米的地方下船，然後游到島上。 我們總共有5個人，包括我父親。原來的碼頭在2019年被颱風山竹摧毀了，所以我們只好在附近的石階上岸。橫欄島由兩個相差十米的小島組成。所有建築物都位於島嶼的東側。 我們決定從這裡開始。拾級而上，會看到正在修復的橋墩石頭上有一組破裂的鐵軌。這是有什麼作用的？

Waglan Island was a desert island more than a hundred years ago. By 1894, Hong Kong has a lot of commercial activity, a marine lighting facility is needed. Therefore, the authority built a lighthouse. Go up the stairs and you will reach the top of the mountain in less than 10 minutes. In addition to the lighthouse, there are 4-5 buildings on the mountain. What are those? Following the lease of the New Territories to the United Kingdom in 1898, the lighthouse was handed over to the Hong Kong government and operate it on January 1, 1901. “The invisibility on Waglan Island is down to 1000 meters.” Reported by radio news. Waglan Island, a name often heard on radio news because it is the alert of Typhoon. The Waglan Lighthouse not only played an important role on navigation, but also used to collect the weather in the east of Hong Kong. The collected data will be sent to the Hong Kong Observatory for analysis purpose. A weather station was built in 1952, and the staff of the Observatory were on duty to observe and record the weather on Waglan Island. It can be seen that there have been people living here for a long time, and the tracks I saw when I went up the mountain were used to pick up employees and transport materials in the past. One of the 3-stories buildings is the staff dormitory. There are about 3-4 rooms on each floor. As the stairs are dilapidated and the old steel buildings are exposed, every step must be very careful. I thought I could see some old furniture, but unfortunately none of them were left. Every room has an invincible sea view, and the bathroom is designed with a bathtub. It reallydoesn't look like a dormitory, but like a small resort hotel.

橫欄島在一百多年前還是一座荒島。到1896年，香港有很多與海外來往的商務工作，需要有一個海洋照明施引路 。因此，當局建造了一座燈塔。從樓梯往上，不到10分鐘的時間內即可到達山頂。除了燈塔，山上還有4-5座建築 。這些是什麼？繼1898年新界租借英國後，燈塔於1月1日移交香港政府營運，「 橫欄島上的能見度下降到 1000 米。」在上世紀初可在電台廣播聽到這些新聞報導。橫欄島，這個名字經常在電台廣播中聽到，因為它是颱風的警報。橫欄島燈塔不僅在航行中發揮了重要作用，還用於收集香港東部的天氣，收集到的數據將送交香港天文台進行分析 。1952年建造了一個氣象站，天文臺的工作人員值班觀察和記錄橫欄島的天氣。從此看來，這裏已經有人生活了很久，而我上山時看到的鐵軌，過去是用來接送員工和運輸物資的。其中一棟3層樓的建築是員工宿舍。每個樓層大約有 3-4 個房間。由於樓梯破舊不堪，舊鋼結構建築暴露無遺，每一步都要非常小心。 本來我以為可以看到一些舊傢俱，但失望是並沒有留下。每間客房都享有無敵海景，浴室設計有浴缸。看起來真的不像宿舍，而是像一個小型的度假酒店 。

The lighthouse has been changed to automation since August 1989, no manual operation is required, and the staff of the Observatory have all left. On the far left is the Fog Horn and Machine Room, all deserted. Fog horns are used to send alarms to alert nearby boat operators when visibility is low. The sound could be heard even in Tsim Sha Tsui. Some staff members reported that it was deafening and very annoying.

燈塔自1989年8月起改為自動化，無需再用人手操作，天文臺工作人員全部離開。最左邊是霧喇叭和機房，現在都空無一人。霧喇叭用於在能見度低時發送警報以提醒附近的船隻操作員。即使在尖沙咀也能聽到聲音。以前一些工作人員報告說，震耳欲聾，非常煩人。

Staff here have to endure the pain of being separated from their families for a long time, as well as the problems of lack daily necessities. According to the information, the transportation on Waglan Island is not easy and only runs once every two weeks. The materials that can be transported to the island are also limited, and the fresh food for the staff is also very little, so they have to set up water tanks to collect tap water and rely on fishing.

這裡的工作人員既要忍受長期與家人分開的痛苦，還要忍受生活用品不足的問題。根據資訊，橫欄島上的交通並不容易，每兩周才運行一次。能運上島的物資也有限，工作人員的新鮮食物也很少，只好架設水箱取自來水和靠打魚為生。

Next to the lighthouse is a building with European-style window frames, which is the dormitory and office for foreign personnel, and some staff desks are reserved inside. We noticed that this building was built with marble, that’s why we felt cool inside. One of the document storage rooms resembles Professor Snape offices in the novel of Harry Potter. Back then, the staff were extremely busy, because Waglan Island was an outpost for typhoon warning, so the staff had to work every 4 hours and rest for 4 hours, collect the information of ships entering and leaving the harbor, forward it to the harbor control center, and report the weather conditions to the Observatory every 3 hours. They also need to maintain the lighthouses and their complexes. The super typhoon Mangkhut that occurred in 2018 caused a serious damage all around Hong Kong. Waglan Island recorded an average wind speed of 161 kilometers per hour, it is the highest record ever, that’s why the docks blew up. You can imagine the staff had to do it over and over again. It could be a dull duty but a very important role.

燈塔旁邊是歐式窗框，是外籍人員的宿舍和辦公室，裡面預留了一些工作人員的辦公桌。我們注意到這座建築是用大理石建造的，這就是為什麼我們在裡面感覺很涼爽。其中一個檔儲藏室類似於哈利波特  小說中石內卜教授的辦公室。當年工作人員非常忙碌，由於橫瀾島是颱風預警前哨，工作人員每4小時工作一次，休息4小時，收集進出港口的船舶信息，轉發給港口控制中心，並將天氣情況報告給天文台每3小時一次。他們還需要維護燈塔及其建築群。2018年發生的超強颱風山竹在香港各地造成嚴重破壞，橫瀾島的平均風速為每小時158公里，這是有史以來的最高記錄，這就是碼頭受到破壞的原因。你可以想像在颱風期間工作人員不得不一遍又一遍地重複匯報天氣情報，這可能是一項沉悶的職責，但卻是非常重要的角色。

As the lighthouse is historic sites, so we are not advised to go in. This lighthouse was completed in 1893.The Waglan Lighthouse was equipped with an advanced signal light at that time, which was fueled by oil, and its rotating lighting instrument was floating on mercury. It was one of the first two lighthouses to adopt this advanced equipment. However, there still have many shipwrecks here. It was the night of January 1929, China Merchants Bureau Xinhua ship departed from Shanghai heading to Hong Kong and drove near Waglan Island in the early morning. The ship is suspected to be affected by high wind and waves, lead to misfortune hit to the reef and sank, caused deaths of 400 people. In the same year of 1929 December, a crew member tried to save their captain in a ship accident but failed. Only two people survived. By 2021, Hong Kong Underwater Archaeology Association dived more than 20 meters below Waglan Island and found the sank ship of Xinhua. Now, I can understand a little bit why this island is called as the devil island too.

由於燈塔是歷史遺跡，所以我們不建議進去。這座燈塔於1893年建成，橫瀾島燈塔當時配備了   先進的信號燈，以石油為燃料，其旋轉照明儀器漂浮在水銀上。它是最早採用這種先進設備的兩座燈塔之一。但是，這裡仍然有很多沉船。1929年1月夜裡，中國某商局新華社從上海出發前往香港，清晨駛近橫瀾島。該船疑似受大風大浪影響，導致不幸撞礁沉沒，造成400人死亡。同年1929年12月，一名船員試圖在一次船難中拯救他們的船長，但最終失敗了，只有兩個人倖存下來。到2021年，香港水下考古協會潛入橫瀾島以下20多米處，發現了新華號沉船。現在，我可以稍微理解為什麼這個島也被稱為魔鬼島了。

After visiting a series of historical buildings, we returned to the pier along the road and swam to the south of the island while unpacking. The total length was about half an hour. However, since the father did not bring fins that day, so he was difficult to withstand the waves and chose to walk on foot. On the way, we saw a small tide pool and sea caves. Finally we reached the Waglan Cave, which is 20 meters high. It was magnificent and the best nature proof of how strong the wind of Waglan Island can be.

參觀完一系列歷史建築後，我們順著路返回碼頭，一邊整理行李一邊游向島南。總共大約半個小時。然而，由於父親那天沒有帶蛙鞋，所以他難以抵擋海浪選擇了步行。途中，我們看到了一個小潮汐池和海蝕洞。最後我們到達了20米高的橫欄島洞穴。氣勢磅礴，是橫瀾島風力之強的最好自然證明。

After watching the perfect sunset at the entrance of the cave, we waited for the boatman bring us back to the modern world. At the end of the journey, I still can't figure out why people call this place as Devil island, maybe is it because of many terrible shipwrecks, or is it too painful for the staff to live in isolation? ? But in any case, memories, whether good or bad, are part of Hong Kong and have the meaning of preserving and remembering.

在洞口看完完美的日落後，我們等待船夫帶我們回到現代世界。在旅程的最後， 我仍然想不通為什麼人們稱這個地方為魔鬼島，也許是因為許多可怕的沉船事故，或者是工作人員的隔離生活太痛苦了？ ？ 但無論如何，回憶，無論好壞，都是香港的一部分，都有保存和銘記的意義。

Photography: @hansleytravel 

"I never go barefoot in the city because I am afraid of dirt and insects, but when I set foot on nature, I couldn't wait to take my shoes off to feel the grass even if there is dried cow dung or ants all over the ground. At that moment I feel liberated and free.”

Hong Kong has many mountains and little flat land. It is extremely rare to find a plain on a mountain. Besides the well-known Ngong Ping Grassland located in Ma On Shan, I wanted to introduce Lui Ta Shek today. Located in Sai Kung, it is surrounded by mountains with its own charm. The Lui Ta Shek Mountain is near the High Island Reservoir, which is part of the Global Geopark waiting quietly to be seen. The Chinese meaning of Lui Ta Shek means “thunder rock”. According to hikers, the same stone on the top of the mountain has been struck by lightning many times and hence its name.

To go to Lui Ta Shek Mountain, you must first take a minibus or bus in Sai Kung to reach the Pak Tam Chung gate. People with good physical fitness will choose to climb to Tai Tun first and then go to Lui Ta Shek Mountain along the road. However, we were too eager to lie on the grass, so we chose a simple and direct route. Pass through the Pak Tam Chung coach parking lot, and you will see the entrance of Pak Tam Chung Country Park. After passing through several barbecue sites along the road, you will be connected to the mountain trail. It is surrounded by dense forests for about an hour. It is a comfortable walk. I saw a green bamboo snake when I crossed a bridge. When it heard human footsteps, it was scared and hid in the jungle. Hansley said "It's okay, we're just passing by."

People often say: "Animals in certain countries are not afraid of people." Although we have not visited places with wild animals such as tropical rain forests, Antarctica, and Africa yet. As mountaineering enthusiasts, we believe that the wild is where animals belong. It is their homeland, and they are all friendly and are there purely for existence. If you treat them well, they will not harm you intentionally. Mutual respect is the principle of survival in all walks of life.

Continuing on, we came to an intersection. On the left is where hikers come from Tai Tun while in front is back to the road, and the trail to Lui Ta Shek is on the right. The road ahead is not an official mountain trail, but it is not easy to get lost. At the same time, it is recommended to download the hiking route map of "Hong Kong Hiking Route" to ensure your own safety. After slowly climbing 100 meters, we began to leave the dense forest. In less than 15 minutes, we finally reached level ground.

"What? How come it is bare? Where's the grass?" I was shocked and looked at the map immediately. Oh! It turned out that we hadn't arrived yet, and we had to cross the hill ahead. The moment of sadness first and then joy makes me look forward to the moment when I see the grassland. Just a few steps later, oh my God, it is beautiful! Here is a natural grassland that is not artificially built on a mountain on the top of over 300 meters, and there is a row of big trees next to it offering us shade. You can also see Sharp Peak and High Land Reservoir. It is rare to be able to take long-distance photos of Sharp Peak which is one of the difficult mountains to climb in Hong Kong. After having lunch, we lay on the big grass and really didn't want to leave. The breeze was so comfortable… But there is no way we will stay longer because I heard that there is a bigger grassland ahead, so let’s stand up and go!

"We are really naive. Just now we thought we were holding on to a treasure, but it turns out that the good show is ahead." This is the first reaction when I saw the grassland under the Lui Ta Shek Mountain. The green land has a magical power. That is, no matter how young or how old you are, you will turn into a child when you set foot on this place, start running mode or just walking around, and there is no undulating high ground here. There was a feeling like “I'm flying” for a few seconds!” We ran back and forth several times and laughed out loud every time. When I watched the replay of the video, I was shocked to see myself laughing innocently in front of the camera. In fact, what was there to be so happy about? I don't know, it's just a happy feeling. I finally understand why the eyes of people in the mountains exude a kind of unpolluted simplicity, because.... happiness can be so simple!

Time flies. After playing on the big grassland for more than an hour, the sun was blocked by Ma On Shan, which is more than 700 meters high. However, Hansley insisted on going to the top of the mountain to have a look because there were two huge boulders called "Lui Gong" and "Lui Po", unique and similar in shape named as a couple. The road to the top of Lui Ta Shek Mountain is very short. It takes only ten minutes to arrive. I do not recommend you stand on the Thunder Rock to take pictures; it is too dangerous. I thought the way down the mountain was not difficult. However, it is getting dark, and the road seems as if no one has walked through it for a long time. The slope is steep at 40 degrees. I had to sit down before moving on. If you are not an experienced hiker, I suggest that it is better to return to the big grassland as it is safer to go down the mountain road on the left. Fortunately, it took us about an hour to reach the village before connecting back to the official MacLehose Trail, and we left by taxi.

Maybe you think it’s just a piece of grass, is my reaction too exaggerated? In the past, I loved looking at mountains, rivers, and nature. I simply think it is beautiful and want to take photos of them. But since I tried trekking which required me to live in nature for a few days, I slowed down and focused on taking every step. I watched the same sunrise and sunset every day and found out I am just a small person in nature. Although nature didn't say anything, it seems to have taught me that any troubles will pass, and tomorrow will come again because “now is a gift and that is why it is called the present."

Photography: @hansleytravel

"There are rumours that the inhabitants of this place disappeared overnight. I was alone on the day I visited. When I stepped in front of their homes, my head hurt but my heart hurt even more."

 「有傳這個地方居民一夜消失，到訪當天我獨自一人，當我踏進它們的家門前，頭很痛，心更痛。」

There is a trend in society to gossip and be particularly excited about ghosts and spirits. It is sad when everything is packaged in such a way before anyone pays attention to it. The village of So Lo Pun is one of these sad rumours. Hong Kong is full of high-rises and yet the forested area in the northeast of the New Territories takes up a huge amount of land and many of the villages are deserted.

社會有一股風氣，就是喜愛討論八卦，對鬼怪靈異事特別雀躍，然而當所有東西都要包裝成這個角度才有人留意，那就十分可悲，而鎖羅盆村就是其一。別看香港高樓林立，在新界東北的林區佔地極大，當中不少荒廢鄉村。

So Lo Pun is located in the North District of the New Territories, near Lai Chi Wo, or to be more precise, behind these five areas, including Ah Kung Tsui, Kam Shan Tsui and Cheung Shek Tsui, part of the Sha Tau Kok Ten Covenants, the Hing Chun Covenant. The villagers are surnamed Wong, a branch of Lai Chi Wo Village. Because of its remote location and the fact that many people interpret So Lo Pun to mean a locked compass and hence it will not work in the village. There are rumours of getting lost but in my opinion, it is the once self-sufficient lives of the villagers that are worth exploring more than spirits.

鎖羅盆可說是絕處求生，位於新界北區近荔枝窩，再準確點是五咀之後，包括亞公咀、金山咀、長石咀等，屬沙頭角十約中「慶春約」，村民姓黃，是荔枝窩村分支出來。因為位置偏遠，加上不少人把「鎖羅盆」解讀成羅盤被鎖住，意指南針會在村中失靈，傳出種種迷路傳說，但在我看來，比起靈異事件，村民曾經自給自足的生活，才是真正值得還原探索的事。

There are many ways to get to So Lo Pun. For those who love long hikes, you can start from Wu Kau Tang, pass Lai Chi Wo to So Lo Pun and finish at Luk Keng. You can also walk from Luk Keng to Lai Chi Wo and take a boat. However, this service is only available on holidays. As the goal this time is to go to So Lo Pun only, we decided to take a shortcut via an old route. It was difficult to navigate. We knew the chances of getting lost were extremely high. From Luk Keng, the first 3km of the trail is along the coast through Ku Po Village, with picturesque scenery and plenty of places for refreshment and chat. It’s a great route for beginners or for a family. But I don't even have time to enjoy a bowl of signature tofu pudding. I hope that this journey, which is sweet and then bitter, will end with good memories.

前往鎖羅盆有很多方法，喜歡長征的朋友可以由烏蛟騰出發，經荔枝窩到鎖羅盆，最後以鹿頸作終。同時亦可由鹿頸出發，走到荔枝窩坐船走，但只限假日有船。由於今次的目標只有鎖羅盆，所以決定抄小路古道前往，但相當難行，迷路指數極高。由鹿頸出發，經谷埔村首3公里主要沿海而走的石屎路，風景如畫，還有許多補給閒聊地點，屬初階或親子路線，但我連吃一碗招牌豆腐花的時間都沒有，希望這躺先甜後苦的旅程，最後都可以以甜美的回憶作結吧。

When you arrive at Song Kee Store, continue ahead. Turn to the left to the stairway. Don't think it’s an easy road when you get there. At this point, you need an offline map. Turn left into the woods to officially embark on the Gu So ancient road. According to the map, it is a straight line from Ku Po to So Lo Pun via Tsim Kwong Tung Au, but the moment I took the first step, my feet were muddy. My head was covered in thorns. I knew I had miscalculated the area. The old road was used by the inhabitants to transport goods in and out in the past. I don't know if the road had been left untouched for too long as it had turned into a dense forest. The road was so slippery that one could accidentally step into deep mud which splattered over your face. This is not the worst part. It was frustrating when I accidentally took a wrong turn and had to clear the branches and thorns to find my way. I couldn't straighten my body, holding the phone in one hand for location and not knowing whether to protect the camera equipment or myself with the other. After the first km of the trail, there was a small stream at the bottom of Tsim Kong Tong Pass. I washed my hands immediately. The road up the hill is still full of gravel and easy to slip, but the main point is that there were lots of mosquitoes. Did the villagers in the past have antibodies that made them immune to mosquitoes?

到達松記士多後要轉進去，直走左手邊會有樓梯，上去後別以為還可以走康莊大道。這時要開啟離線地圖轉左走進叢林了，正式踏上谷鎖古道。根據地圖顯示，由谷埔經穿光峒坳到鎖羅盆是直線一條，但踏出第一步，腳踩泥濘，頭披荊棘那刻，我就知道自己完全錯判形勢了。網上消息指，這條古道是往日居民進出運貨的通道，不知是否因為太久沒人走了，完全變成密林。路面極為濕滑，一不小心就踩進不底深泥，突如其來蜘蛛網面膜都不算最可怕，一不小心走錯了一點點，要撥開樹枝尖棘找路，才是沮喪的，身體又伸不直，一隻手拿著電話定位，另一隻手不知要護著拍攝器材，還是保護自己。走過首1公里的路，尖光桐坳底有一條小溪，立刻洗一洗手。往後就清晰多了，但上山的路依然充滿砂石容易滑倒，重點是超級多蚊，到底以前的村民是不是有抗體對蚊蟲免疫了？

It took about an hour to get out of the woods. I thought my nightmare was over, but it was only the beginning. I was lost! I was supposed to keep to the left to get to So Lo Pun Village, but I deviated from the route and walked out of the swamp. The trees around me were taller than me. I couldn't tell where I was going, but along the way I smelled something like lemons. I immediately recalled the information I had gathered before setting out on my journey:

上山落出大概1個多小時走出叢林以為惡夢完結，怎料才是開始，我迷路了。原本應該是靠左邊一直走就到鎖羅盆村，但我偏離路線走出沼澤，周遭的樹比我還高，完全無法分辨方向，但沿路聞到很香的味道，像檸檬，我立刻想起出發前搜集資料提及：

"So Lo Pun is well endowed with natural resources supported by clear water from the valley with Kat O Bay in front. The village here is self-sufficient with terraced fishponds, sweet potatoes and vegetables. Most of the men go out fishing while the women farm and look after their children" and so on.

「鎖羅盆天然資源充足後有清澈谷水，前臨海產豐富的吉澳海灣，所以這裡的村屋自給自足，建梯田魚塘，會種蕃薯、蔬菜，男士大多出外捕魚 ，女士則耕田照顧子女....」等等

I believe I am in a rural area of the past or at least in the So Lo Pun area. I couldn't get the smell of lemons out of my mind but later realised it was verbena which repel mosquitoes. No wonder the villagers weren't afraid of these nasty pests. After my drone helped to locate my position, I finally entered the village, having heard many rumours and horror stories, but I didn't feel the least bit eerie. In the 1970s it was at its peak with over 170 people living here, but by the end of the 1970s villagers began to move out. By the 1980s the whole village was deserted. Although most of the roofs have collapsed, the couplets on the doors are intact and the remaining population who continued to stay here is not the result of nature but the perseverance of the village descendants over the years. It is rumoured that the inhabitants of So Lo Pun disappeared overnight, but in fact, they have prospered and left the village. They still remember their hometown, returning to the village every year on the first day of the year to put up couplets and clean the ancestral hall. The villagers express their hopes for the new year with auspicious words, adding life to these ancestral houses.

所以我相信我位處於往日的農地區，起碼已到鎖羅盆範圍。我對那種檸檬味念念不忘，後來才知道是馬鞭草，有提神驅蚊作用，怪不得村民不怕蚊。在航拍幫忙定位後，終於進入村，聽過很多恐佈傳說，但到後沒有絲毫陰森感。這裡在1970年代是全盛時期住了170多人，但到70年代末村民開始遷出 ，80年代更全村荒廢，現在雖然大部分屋頂已倒塌，但門上的對聯字體清晰，剩餘的人氣不是大自然的刻意眷顧，而是村民後代的多年堅持。外人流傳鎖羅盆的居民一夜消失，事實上後代繁衍，還對家鄉念念不忘，每年歲末一都回村貼對聯、打掃祠堂，以吉祥語表達村民對新一年的寄望，為祖屋添生機。

The couplets are very interesting. Besides being blessings, these are also inspirational quotations for life, showing the wisdom and insight of the villagers. My favourite line is "The cold snow ends when plum emerges; the spring breeze returns when willow appears.” As I continued to walk around the village, I saw a playground with metal frame facilities only found in old villages, the same of which I had only seen in Nam Shan Village, also over 30 years old. How can there be no school when there are traces of children's lives? There was once a school, the Kai Ming Primary School, built in 1932, which was said to have taken only students from Grade 1 to 3. It's a pity we couldn't find its exact location in the end. Imagine children running around the village after school. It won’t be quiet and dead as it is now!

對聯很有趣，除了祝福話，還有人生激勵名句，可見村民的智慧與見識。我最喜歡這句「寒雪梅中盡，春風柳上歸。」我繼續在村內走走，看見舊村才有的鐵架遊樂設施，同樣的我只在南山村看到，同樣有三十多年歷史。有小朋友生活的痕跡怎會沒有學校？這裏曾經有一間學校，名叫啟明小學，據說在1932年興建，只會收一至三年級學生，可惜最後找不到它的確實位置，試想像小孩下課後在村內跑來跑去，還會覺得這裡死氣沉沉嗎？

Since I am here, I don’t want to miss any corner. The buildings are terraced, and you can imagine neighbours back then were like family, a close relationship which has disappeared in modern Hong Kong. The underground concrete road is marked in English, for example, DOTP 1958.  In 1958, the Kadoorie Agricultural Aid Association (KAAA) helped the Old District Office North (DOTP) in Tai Po to build this concrete road for villagers hence the abbreviation.

難得來到這裡不想錯過每個角落，發現建築是梯田式的，左鄰右里親如家人的生活，在現代香港已消失。跟著石屎路準備走出海傍，地下石屎路有一些英文一，例如地下就寫DOTP1958。話說在1958年，嘉道理農業輔導會協助大埔理文府，興建這條石屎路，方便村民進出，所以DOTP就是大埔理文府簡稱。

The dam at So Lo Pun village was built by the villagers to separate the sea water from the fishponds. Because of the lack of maintenance over time and the departure of villagers, sea water has flooded into the fishponds, creating a junction between salt and fresh water to form a mangrove forest. The view from here is spectacular. See the tall high-rises in the mainland and feel you have travelled back in time. It is both awe-inspiring and saddening to think that as the city develops, the things that used to be there are abandoned and don’t exist anymore. In the long run, we would be left, without identity or history. What we have left are just a cold exterior. Would we know who we are?

來到鎖羅盆村的堤壩，這是當年村民隔海水及魚塘而設的，因為日久失修，村民又離開了，所以海水湧入魚塘，造成咸淡水交界，而形成紅樹林。這裡景觀開揚，遠眺內地的高樓，有一種古代人穿越時空的感覺，既驚嘆又感概，當城市光鮮亮麗地發展後，以前的事與物就棄了，視為不存在呢？長遠下去，我們作為這個地方的人，沒有過去歷史的身份，剩下只有冰冷的驅殻，我們還知道自己是誰嗎？

We sat down and had a bite to eat here before leaving. After passing through Yung Shue Wan, we return to the Song Kee Store in Ku Po where we started the journey. Some people say we should keep the ruins a secret and not disclose the location. But in my opinion, people have abandoned them. If these places are not conserved or promoted, they would only disappear without trace into the wilderness over time. I suggest not to have a vested interest and simply enjoy the footprints of those who have gone before you. Also don’t be selfish and destroy the unique beauty of the ruins by moving or destroying anything when you visit them.

在這裡坐下去吃一點東西就要離開了。經過榕樹凹回到谷埔的松記士多，一切回到最初的起點。有人說要將廢墟保密，不要公開地點。但在我看來，是人們遺棄了它們，這些地方若不被保育推廣，只會隨著時間，與自野融合，最終無痕消失。不要做既得利益者，獨享前人留下的足跡，亦不要自私，到訪時千萬不要移動、破壞當中的一草一物，破壞了它獨特的美態。

"I never wanted to come here before because of its outer shiny appearance with a false artifice, devoid of the beauty of raw nature, but since I brought the visually impaired here, I have come to understand that it is otherwise."

「以前我從不希罕到這，因為它有著光鮮的外表，卻是千瘡百孔的偽裝品，沒有原始大自然的美，但自從我帶了視障人士來這，才明白什麼是善意的謊言。」

Hong Kong has many hills and few flatlands, and even fewer green plains. Apart from Ngong Ping grassland which is a product of nature, many famous and large areas are man-made. In the past, I heard that there was a piece of grassland as large as a Victoria Park hidden in the mountains of Sai Kung called Sham Chung. Many people would go camping, come for a picnic and fly kites during holidays. When you look at the photos, you would think you were on the Mongolian plains full of foliage in the background. However, when I looked up the information on the internet, I found out that the site was originally a wetland with biodiversity, but it was sold to a private developer many years ago and the plan to build a golf course was called off. After hearing such a story, my interest in this place was low until I visited it for the first time when I organised a hiking activity for the visually impaired.

香港山多平地少，綠油油的平原更是少之又少，除了昂平草原是大自然的結晶外，其他有名又面積大的都是人工合成的成品。以前聽說西貢深山中藏有一塊維園般大的草地，名叫深涌，假日很多人會去露營、野餐、放風箏，再看到相片，在椰林樹影的陪襯下，令人以為去了蒙古大草原。然而，上網查資料得知該地原是溼地，生物多樣化，多年前卻賣了給私人發展商，並計劃興建高爾夫球場不果，便幫土地值上草皮，一直閒置至今。聽完這樣橫蠻的故事後，對這個地方的興趣立刻降為零，直至有一次籌辦帶視障人士行山的活動，才第一次踏足這個地方。

Sham Chung is located at the northern part of Sai Kung, surrounded by mountains on three sides, including Shek Nga Tau, Shek Uk Shan and Wah Mei Shan and facing the Three Fathoms Cove. "Sham" means deep inland, while "Chung" refers to the salt and freshwater junction near the shore. There are many ways to get to Sham Chung. Those who like to hike can take a two-hour walk from Shui Long Wo to Sham Chung, but as most of the road is a concrete path, it is not very exciting for nature hikers like me. The easiest way is to take a ferry from Ma Liu Shui Pier, but as I live in Tseung Kwan O, I couldn't justify taking a ferry all the way to Sham Chung. I decided to take a taxi to Yung Shue O (this is a restricted area) and walk for 45 minutes to Sham Chung. Skip the battle with cars along the road and enjoy the view of the mangroves.

深涌位於西貢北部，三面環山，包括石芽頭、石屋山和畫眉山，面向企嶺下海。「深」意指深入內陸；而「涌」指近岸的鹹淡水交界。到訪深涌有很多方法，喜歡遠足的朋友可由水浪窩出發，步行2小時到深涌，但由於大部分路段屬石屎車路，像我這些崇尚原始的人就覺得沒太大意義。最簡單的方式還可在馬料水碼頭坐渡輪到達，但住在將軍澳的我沒理由千里迢迢去坐船，所以最後決定坐的士到榕樹澳(此為禁區路段)，然後步行大概45分鐘到深涌，跳過沿路和車輛搏鬥，又可以欣賞到紅樹林美景。

The first time I went to Sham Chung was to try out the trail with my aunt and have a picnic. I prepared a lot of food beforehand and even wore a pretty dress which I regretted later. The 45-minute trail was easy. No stairs, only a very few slopes, and the ground was perfectly paved. A 1-star trail ideal for families.

第一次到深涌是跟姨姨去試路，順便野餐，事前準備了許多食物，還刻意穿了一條公主裙，到後來又要後悔了。45分鐘的路果然輕鬆，一級樓梯都沒有，只有非常少量的斜坡，加上地面舖得十分完整，絕對1星親子路線。

Yung Shue O consists mainly of rivers and streams, freshwater marshes, mangroves and forests. This is also a popular spot for bird and butterfly watching. Every time I passed by the mangroves, I would get close to the plants and observe them, not only looking out for hermit crabs poking their heads out, but also help release the fishing ropes and ghost nets trapped in the branches of the trees. These horrible things wash up to the shore and become entangled in the plants, and over time the branches turn white and wither. Passers-by will think I'm silly for getting rid of them because there will be more the next day. I just want to do what I can, and if everyone does a little bit, there's a lot in collective power.

榕樹澳主要生境為河溪、淡水沼澤、紅樹林及次生林，亦是觀鳥賞蝶的熱點，當天看到有人划獨木舟遊覽，一問才知企嶺下有租借公司，十分方便。每次經過紅樹林，我都會走近植物旁仔細觀察，除了留意稍探頭的寄居蟹，還幫忙解除困在樹枝上的捕繩索及鬼網。這些可怕的小東西被海水沖上來纏住植物，日久後樹枝就會變白色枯萎。路人會覺得我很傻，今天弄完明天又有，但我只想盡我能力，如果每個人都做多一點，力量就很大。

After a 40-minute walk, you reach Sham Chung Pier. The white lighthouse against the tranquil sea is a beautiful sight, and this is the best angle to enjoy the sunset especially if you are on the last boat. Continuing along the concrete road is a little river that feeds into the sea and when the moment of the large open meadow comes into view, it is truly amazing! Although it was tucked away in the mountains, the sunlight was not blocked. It shone fiercely on the lush green grass. The scene reminded me of the swiss meadows in the movie Sound of Music where music was heard everywhere. I instantly felt the urge to take off my shoes and run wildly on the grass and lie down! However, I urge you not to do this! Because the villagers have added a lot of fertilisers to make the grass grow strong. Don’t forget that this was a swamp. I didn't know whether I am stepping on grass, mud or...?

走了40分鐘左右就到達深涌碼頭，白色的燈塔與平靜的海面相映的畫面很美，這裡是日落最佳角度，如果坐最後一班船走的朋友就有眼福。繼續沿著石屎路走，旁邊是一條注入海中的河道，開揚的大草地出現在眼前的那一刻，確實很驚嘆。雖然它藏在深山中，但陽光沒有被遮擋，猛烈地照射在綠油油的草地上，令我憶起仙樂飄飄處處聞的瑞士草原，瞬間有種想立刻脫鞋在草上狂奔，然後當草是雪地一樣，不顧一切向後躺下的衝動！然而，我在這裡提醒各位，千萬不要這樣做！！！！因為村民為了讓草地茁壯成長，加了不少「肥料」，還別忘了這裡原是沼澤，我都不知踩到的是草、是泥，還是...?

Back to reality, we found a shallow grassy area near the fishpond and sat down to eat on the ground. Luckily, we had brought mosquito coils with us otherwise we would have been bitten by mosquitoes. After our meal, we wandered around. There are five settlements in Sham Chung, but the names differ in literature and oral accounts due to the varying transliterations in Hakka and Cantonese. There is a stall along the concrete road next to a coconut tree, which is one of the settlements called Wan Chai. To the right are the villages of Shek Tau Path, Pau Nei Chai, Holy Church and Tui Min. Villagers settled here 200 years ago and this area was used for farming. In the late 19th century, Catholic missionaries came to the area and established the Epiphany of Our Lord Chapel and School. However, after the Second World War, when agriculture declined and transportation became difficult, the villagers moved out and the village fell into disuse.

回到現實在近魚塘旁找了塊淺草的地，就席地而坐開餐了，幸好帶了蚊香，不然我們還沒吃飽就被蚊子吸乾了。吃完就四處走走，深涌是一條村落，有五個聚居點，各地的名字在文獻和口述記敘上卻出現差異，可能是客家話的譯音偏差，亦可能是民間通俗另有不同稱呼。 沿著石屎路走到椰樹旁有一間士多，那就是其中一個居點名叫灣仔，向右邊數是石頭徑村、包尼仔村、聖教堂村和對面村。這裡遠在200年前已有人定居，以務農為生。而在19世紀末，更有天主教傳教士到此傳教，並建立三王來朝小堂和學校。然而，二戰後農業式微、交通不便等原因，村民陸續遷出，村落亦荒廢。

After a relaxing afternoon in Sham Chung, I decided to take the visually impaired on another trip, as it was a short one with no stairs. There are also places to rest so that they could experience nature. On the day, there were three visually impaired persons, two of whom had lost their eyesight completely and had to be led along the whole way. When I let them touch the heart-shaped leaves and the grass on the trees, they were thrilled and said they loved the smell of the grass and the warmth of the sun.

在深涌逗留了一個輕鬆的下午，最後決定帶視障人士再來一次，一來短程又沒有梯級，二來有地方休息，讓他們好好感受大自然，但我不設太大的期望，只希望安全完成。當天同行有三位視障人士，其中兩位是失去全視力，需全程牽著走。當天我隨意帶他們摸一下路旁形似心形的樹葉，樹上的茫草，他們就興奮不已，還常說喜歡草的味道，感受到陽光的熱力。

Watching their satisfied smiles reminded me of a few things. As experienced hikers, we challenge ourselves to conquer a mountain and prove our abilities, forgetting the curiosity we felt when we first encountered nature and how small we are, and that nature has always been there for us. As able-bodied human beings, the pleasures we see, touch, smell and enjoy should not be taken for granted. Help those around you to appreciate these. Nature can heal the soul and you can be a healer too!

看著他們滿足的笑容，提醒了我幾件事。作為富行山經驗的人，我們在不知不覺中會不斷向難度挑戰，意圖要征服哪座山，證明自己的能力，而忘記了初接觸大自然的時候，對一草一木的好奇，更忘了自己的渺少，一直以來都是大自然容納我們。作為健全的人，我們看到、觸到、聞到、享受到的快樂，不應該獨有，可以的話就分享出去，幫助身邊的人去了解吧。大自然可以療癒心靈，你都可以成為其中一位治療師。

"Rome was not built in all day and neither is nature. You think hills are only greens and the sea blues, but you are wrong. The bricks of a city fade in colour and crumb away eventually, but nature is truly a spectacular world that is constantly evolving.”

「羅⾺非⼀天建成，⼤⾃然都⼀樣。你以為⼭是綠的，海是藍的，這就錯了。城市的磚頭最多退⾊碌落，唯有⼤⾃然，才是真正不斷在變的奇幻世界，⽣⽣不息。」

Today, I would like to introduce you to a place that is deep red – Port Island. It is a part of the Shuen Wan Country Park and has been listed a Hong Kong global geopark. At the end of the volcanic period 180 million years ago, the area was subjected to a long dry spell. The climate was so hot that the rocks on the peaks weathered and crumbled into the plains to form sediments in which iron-bearing minerals transformed into red iron oxide, forming the red colour of the island. Many people visit Port Island only to swim along the beach, but the many changes in the earth have created a few unusual characteristics on the south-eastern side of the island, which are truly spectacular.

今天跟⼤家介紹的是地⽅是⼀⽚鮮紅之地–赤洲。赤洲是塔⾨以北的⼀個島嶼，屬船灣郊野公園，更被列為香港世界地質公園之⼀。在⼀億8千萬年前，火⼭活動完結，該範圍出現漫長的乾旱期，氣候異常嚴熱，⼭上的岩⽯風化崩落，沖到平原形成沉積物，當中帶有鐵的礦物轉化為紅⾊的氧化鐵， 就形成島上的紅⾊岩⽯。很多⼈到訪赤洲只會沙灘暢泳，但由於這裡經過多次地殻變動，所以在島的東南⾯，形成很多奇特風貌，那才是真正壯觀的地⽅。

To get to Port Island, I bought a white swimming costume along to match the red rocks for a great shot! As a woman, I want to look my best! Visit Port Island by boarding a boat from Wong Shek Pier. It takes around 20 minutes to reach this crimson land. Right in front of us is the first attraction – Dharma Cave. Surrounded by solid rock formations, there is the only round cave, just big enough for one person to sit inside and imagine being a monk. Later, I reflected that these strange rock formations had taken millions of years to form and were too fragile and precious to be stepped on, just like Bluff Head and should be protected.

出發前往赤洲，我為了襯托紅⾊的岩⽯拍美照，刻意去買了件⽩⾊的泳衣，女⼈就是這樣啦～到訪赤洲可在⿈⽯碼頭上船，⼤概20分鐘到達紅沙北灣，正式宣佈踏上赤紅⼤地，迎⾯⽽來是第⼀個景點–達摩洞！四周都是堅固的岩⽯，唯獨有個圓形的洞，剛好夠⼀個⼈坐進去扮和尚打坐。但是呢， 經過我⾏程完結後我反思，這些奇特的岩⽯是經過上千萬年的時間才形成，很脆弱和珍貴，不應該踩踏上去，就像是⿁⼿岩⼀樣，好好保護。

Several abandoned facilities remain from the British garrison on Port Island. As we walk up the concrete bridge, we cross a grassy stretch and was greeted by an endless coastline. We look ahead and see a rock formation shaped like a goat's horn, a mountain peak looking over the sea. It takes just ten minutes to reach the top where it overlooks the whole of Port Island. You can't help but marvel at the power of nature over a clear ridge of crimson peaks. Whereas red gives the impression of passion, romance and mystery, here is another dimension. On the sea by the goat’s horn are rows of rocks eroded by the sea over thousands of years. If you look carefully and use your imagination, you can just make out rock formations that resemble two small dogs.

赤洲曾有英軍駐守，故保留了不少廢棄設施，我們沿著⽯屎橋往上走，跨過⼀段草叢後，迎來眼前⼀望無際的海岸線，向前看⾒到⼀個形似⽺⾓的怪⽯，好像站在嶺峰中遙望⼤海。徒步⼗分鐘上到⽺⾓頭⼭頂，這個位置可以俯視全赤洲，看著清晰⼀條起伏跌宕的赤紅的⼭脊，不禁讚嘆⼤⾃然的威⼒。紅⾊給⼈的感覺是熱情、浪漫、神秘，這裡卻多了⼀份滄桑歷練。⽺⾓頭旁的海上，有個⽯排，那邊的岩⽯長年累⽉受海⽔侵蝕，出現奇特的切⾓，細⼼觀看再發揮想像⼒， 會發現有兩隻⼩狗呢～

As you walk down the hill, you get to a wall of rocks extending from the peak to the sea, resembling a giant snake slowly entering the water, a phenomenon known geologically as differential erosion. Rocks have different resistance to erosion - in simple terms, the hard rock is left behind from weathering and the soft rocks are washed away, leaving parts of the rock to hollow out. As we walked on the snake's back to take photos, eureka! Directly beneath is a heart shape pond not mentioned in any travelogue! As we walked slowly down, we stepped on what looked like a massive spider's web of rocks that had peeled off. It resembled a caramel biscuit or a honey rusk looking at it from the side. I guess we must be hungry! The water was too stagnant to go in, we took photos and left.

沿路走下⼭，不久就看到⼀條由⼭上延伸⾄海上的⽯壁，形似⼀條巨蛇緩緩走入⽔中，這種現象地質學名是差異侵蝕。不同岩⽯的抗蝕⼒不同，簡單來說，就是經過風化侵蝕，硬的留下，軟的被沖走，最後形成部分岩⽯被架空的狀態。我們走在蛇背上拍照時發現新⼤陸！正下⽅竟然有⼀個⼼形⽔池，沒有⼀遍遊記提及的！我們慢步走下去時，腳踏著被⽯英入侵的岩⽯，好像⼤規模的蜘蛛網，有些剝落了，側切⾓看想極了焦糖味餅乾，還像蜜糖拉絲，是不是我們餓瘋了～⼼形池的死⽔，不宜下⽔，所以拍照後就走了。

The scary things you find in the four corners of Port Island are the appearance of feet of little birds! Some look like feet, others just webs. In fact, the government once planned to build a statue of a swallow on the island to attract this species back to the area, but since the island was later designated as a geopark with more visitors. This caused many swallows to migrate. Sometimes I wonder how to strike a balance between promoting the beauty of Hong Kong and attracting more people to visit as opposed to the potential harm on nature that results with more visits. All we can do now is to make more people aware of environmental protection.

在赤洲的四處會發現恐怖的東⻄，就是⼩⿃的腳！有些有腳丫，有些只有腳趾，讓⼈⽑⾻悚然。掛掉恐佈背景⾳樂說真的了～其實赤洲曾是燕歐的聚集地，政府曾計劃在此設置燕歐的雕像，吸引牠們回流，但因為後來赤洲被列為地質公園，多了訪客，導致⼤量燕歐遷移。有時都會反思，到底在推廣香港的美，吸引更多⼈到訪了解，比起除之⽽來有可能對⼤⾃然的傷害，到底如何平衡呢？但當下可以做的，是讓更多⼈有⼭野無痕，保護環境的概念。

After a long hot day, it was finally time to go into the water. First, we went down to the eroded cave on Port Island. Careful where you walk through the cave as there are extremely sharp quartz rocks. There's nothing special about the cave, except that there's quite a bit of ocean litter and a lot of midges in the cave. These pesty flies are worse than mosquitoes. Their sting last long so one needs to have persistence to stay on to take photos before leaving.  

在⼭上玩了很久，⼤熱天終於可以下⽔了。我們先下⾏到赤洲海蝕洞。由於⽯英網脈⽚佈，有些被切⾓得極為尖利，所以⼤家定必⼩⼼⾏走。赤洲洞沒什麼特別，只是海上垃圾有點多，加上洞內有很多蠓蟲，這些⼩東⻄被蚊可惡，不但痕還會持續很久，靠著強勁的意志⼒誓要拍出美照才撐下去！

There are a lot of strange rock formations on Port Island. I don't know if it because of generation gap as what was named by our predecessors looks like a red horse. To us post-90s we think it looks like a space shuttle while what was originally a red rabbit with its hands up looks like Agumon from Digimon Adventure. That's the funny thing about rocks, what looks dead but is in fact a history book. Every rock and crack are symbols of an old story but at the same time, interpreted another way by people from different generations.

赤洲真的有許多奇異怪⽯，但不知是不是代溝問題，前輩們命名的赤⾺在我們這群90後眼中，像穿梳機，⽽舉起雙⼿的赤兔卻像數碼暴⿓中的阿古獸。這就是岩⽯的有趣之處，它看來的死死的，卻像⼀本歷史書，它的每個裂痕都象徵著這裡曾經的故事，但同時在不同⼈眼中有不同詮釋。

Continue south along the coast and get to a patchwork of giant red-pink large pebbles, each one an art piece! The aerial view of this site from the sky is more stunning! It turns out that this pebbled beach changes colour from iron red in contrast with the green sea to red, reddish pink, bright pink... With the crystal-clear green ocean water, it's so beautiful, it makes every girl burst with joy!

繼續沿岸向南走，會看⾒⼀⽚赤粉紅⾊的巨卵⽯灘，每⼀塊都是artpiece! 從航拍⾼空看更震驚！原來這個⽯灘是有漸變⾊的，由迎海的鐵紅，慢慢變赤紅、赤粉、鮮粉...加上藍綠⾊的玻璃海⽔～救命呀，真的太美啦，少女⼼瞬間爆發！

Walk through the rocky beach and pass through a peculiar area of water in which we had to crouch down to pass through. It feels like a scene from The Mummy! It’s after 5pm and we had arranged for a boatman to pick us up at 6pm from North Bay but we still had one last destination - Red Desert Maze! The sand is smooth and fine but as we didn't have enough time, we could only get a quick glimpse before leaving.

走過⽯灘，我們會經過棧道奇⽳，要鞠⾝走過，有盜務迷城的感覺。走著走著已經五點多了，約了船家6點在北灣接我們，但還有最後⼀個點–赤漠迷城還未到啊！赤漠迷城是⼀⽚全島赤紅聚中地， 坐在地上拿起的粉砂碎屑很滑很細，但因為時間不夠，我們只能走⾺看花。

We tried to call the boatman to see if he can pick us up here. He refused because of the strong waves. With half an hour to go before the boat arrives, my companion and I had no choice but to walk as fast as we can the way back. We had to climb 132 metres up to the top of Port Island before descending to North Bay. It is rare for people to reach the south of Port Island along the hills. The cell phone signal here is very weak. We will need to alert the boatman with our aerial camera that we are on our way if we are unable to arrive in time. There seems always to be little glitches. I guess this is life! Unfortunately, I had a relapse of an old foot wound, and every step I took felt like piercing needles. It took less than 45 minutes but a lot of pain to get there. When I finally got on the boat, I looked back at Port Island. Tears welled up in my eyes, but I couldn't help but felt proud that my sweat had merged with this crimson land. It is wonderful to be part of something so magical!

我們嘗些打給船家，要求轉在赤漠迷城接我們，但因為太⼤浪被拒絕了。還有半⼩時船家就到了， 我和同伴唯有硬著頭⽪，⽤最快腳步依⼭路回程。因為很少⼈經⼭路到赤洲的南邊，所以我們要爆林先攀上132⽶的赤洲頂，再下⾏到北灣。這裡的⼿機信號很差，我們計劃如果趕不及到，就放航拍提示船家我們正趕來，每次遊歷拍攝總會出現⼩意外，這就是⼈⽣吧！腳有舊患的我在緊急下⼭情況下⼜復發了，每⼀步都像被針卡般，忍著疼痛⽤了不45分鐘終於到了，上船後回望赤洲這⽚鮮紅⼤地，淚⽔在眼眶內打滾，但不禁⾃豪，從今⽇後我的⾎汗已成為這裡的紅，能被⼤⾃然融納，成為⼀部分很奇妙。

“Fantasy is always beautiful, just like the fleeting image of a rainbow after the rain. People marvel every time they see a rainbow as to them it represents luck, beauty and good.”

 「幻想永遠是美好的，就正如彩虹明明只是雨後的景像，一瞬即逝，但人們每次看到都會驚嘆不已，認為它代表幸運與美好。」

Rainbow stairs, rainbow walls... All in all, the word "rainbow" attracts a lot of attention especially among teenage girls. I've always been a fan of natural beauty and not interested in these cute things at all. However, I can't deny that the first time I saw the rainbow railings, I gasped.

彩虹樓梯、彩虹牆...總之有「彩虹」二字，就會吸引大量少女心爆發的女士到來。一直崇尚自然美的好，原本對這些一點興趣都沒有，但我不否認，第一下看見這排彩虹欄杆，我嘩出聲了。

The rainbow railings are located in Tuen Mun town centre. It takes just five minutes to reach the entrance of the hiking trail from Tuen Mun Station. There is a clear sign on the ground floor "To Country Park". The first part of the trail is mostly stairs which must have scared many. A tip for climbing stairs, don't walk like a granny and hunch your back! Don't be afraid to see the stairs in front of you. Instead, look back from time to time and you will find that you have come a long way as the scenery opens. Try focusing on what is gained, rather than what is behind. This is something my hiking senior taught me.

這條彩虹欄杆位於屯門市中心，在屯門站出發，只需五分鐘便到達登山入口，地下有明確寫著「往郊野公園」，沿著黃色欄杆一直向上走，起初的路段大多是樓梯，大家一定嚇怕了。推薦一個爬樓梯的小技巧，千萬不要像老婆婆般愈走愈駝背，不要害怕看見前面的梯級，反而要不時回望，就會發現自己已經走了很多，風景都漸漸開揚，嘗試把重心放在得到的，而不是失去的，是登山教會我的事。

In about 15 minutes you come across a sign for Tai Lam Country Park and continue towards Tuen Mun Path. Tuen Mun Trail is a good walk. The stairs and stone steps are intact, making it an ideal morning trail for the whole family. There are several morning walk facilities set up by residents and a district flag from somewhere. I was almost misled when I saw a main crossing. The handwritten road sign says "Lam Tei Reservoir" which is the destination of today's journey. If you take this side up the hill, you won't get to the rainbow railings, so don't turn right. There were plenty of pavilions and chairs to rest but I couldn't stop but continued because the rainbow I wanted to see was just ahead!

大概15分鐘就會見到大欖郊野公園的指示牌，繼續向屯門徑走，屯門徑很好走，樓梯及石級完整，是不錯的晨運家樂徑，所以途中有不少居民搭建的晨運設施，還有一支不知哪來的區旗。走了一會兒會看到重要分差口，我都差點被誤導了。手寫路寫著往「藍地水塘」，亦是今天旅程的終點，但如果走這邊上山，就去不了彩虹欄杆，所以千萬不要轉右，要靠直行在主徑。途中雖有不少涼亭椅子可休息，但我急不及待加快腳步，因為彩虹就在前方了！

Red, orange, green, blue and purple - the 200-metre-long rainbow railings were erected along the hillside, with a view of the city of Tuen Mun and the hills in contrast.  Over there are difficult hiking routes to Yuen Tau Shan, Castle Peak and Por Lo Shan. Standing here, I felt like a child looking up at an adult, watching from afar but not stepping foot. I made a mental note to visit them all. If this place was just a pile of grey and dull railings, its charm would be lost. There are many colours in nature that are not as attractive as the artificial ones. But if you want more people to fall in love with hiking and promote nature, the right kind of packaging is a realistic and practical consideration.

紅橙黃綠青藍紫～一條依山而建，任長約200米的彩虹欄杆出現了，開揚的屯門市景盡入眼簾，還有連綿都山作對影，那試都是高難度登山路線，如圓頭山、青山和菠蘿山等。站在這邊的我，好像小朋友仰望大人，可遠觀而未踏足，心裡默默記下清單要一一到訪。如果這裡只是灰色沉沉的欄杆，它的魅力定然失色。大自然中有很多顏色，往往都不及人工的東西來得吸晴。但如果想更多人愛上登山，推廣大自然，適當的包裝是現實成熟的考慮。

After taking a few photos, I continued my way. After a few steps, the open and unobstructed view turned into a Japanese-inspired bamboo path lined with pine trees over 10 metres high. You can't help but stop to admire. There is something magical about this simple Tuen Mun trail that makes the short walk fascinating and enjoyable.

拍了幾張照片就繼續起行，走了幾步後，剛才開揚無死角的景像瞬間變成日式竹林道，兩旁都是10多米高的松樹，聽著流水聲經過一條小木橋，又情不自禁停下腳步觀賞。這條簡單的屯門徑有著什麼魔力，讓短線的路程好像一直走不完，都樂在其中。

A little further on is Yeuk Mung Yuen with a poetic name and an intriguing story. It was built by a group of hikers decades ago and was once manned every day offering soup and water for visitors to drink for free. The idea was to provide a place for passers-by to take a break. An old man with a white beard would leave a pen and a notebook here for people to write poems. He was known as "Mr Che". However, the group of middle-aged men who were so enthusiastic back then are now grey-haired folks who have difficulty climbing up the mountain. Some have even passed away. Yeuk Mung Yung is now deserted but there is still a sense of calm and healing here. Many criticise this as illegally occupying land but I think that everything should be left as it was. A trail without people is like a trail without life and stories.

再往前走就是「若夢園」，充滿幻想的名字有著耐人尋味的故事。這裡是由一班行山人士在數十年前自發搭建，更曾經每天都有人駐守，定時煲湯煲水予遊人免費飲用，他們「出錢更出力」，只志在為行經此地的過客提供地方「抖一抖」。曾經有短很有文學氣息的連姓的山友，蓄一把白鬍鬚會放枝筆及簿在這，讓人們寫詩，大家都叫他「車公子」。然而，當年那群一腔熱血的中年人，現都白髮蒼蒼，不便上山，有些已仙遊，現在的「若夢園」已荒廢，但仍有種凌靜的治愈感。有不少人批評這是非法霸佔地方，我卻認為所有東西適可而止即可，沒有人的山徑就像沒了生命及故事。

After passing Yeuk Mung Yuen, you come to the Pavilion of Eight Directions. Follow the stairs up a long hill. It takes about 15 minutes to reach the highest point, where there is a pavilion to rest. The only thing that remains unchanged is that there is still a hilly trail underneath us, and it is a comfortable walk up the hill. After walking for about 30 minutes, we passed through the barbecue site in Fu Tei and followed the wide road down to the right. At the end of the trail, there is a sign saying, "Fu Tei Village" and a staircase leading down to Nam Tei Reservoir.

過了「若夢園」就到八方亭，之後沿樓梯一直上山，樓梯都頗長。大約15分鐘來到了最高處，有一個涼亭可休息。不知不覺間已經跨過山頭到另一面，面前不在是高樓大廈，而是深山幽谷，唯一不變的就是腳下仍是豪草山徑，還要上山舒服得很。大約走多30分鐘，穿過虎地燒烤場，右沿寬闊的馬路一直向下行，來到了盡頭，有一個牌子寫着「虎地村」，旁邊有一條樓梯，下行就是藍地水塘了。

Lam Tei Reservoir, also known as Tiger Hang Reservoir, is an irrigation reservoir in Hong Kong. The reservoir was opened in 1957 by Governor Grantham. I like to walk on the bridge and look towards Kau Keng Shan, where the strong and upright mountains look like a guardian beside the calm and mirror-like reservoir. The bridge is shallow and narrow. Do not block the road to take photos or ignore other climbers!

藍地水塘又名老虎坑水塘，是香港灌溉水塘之一。水塘於1957年由當時港督葛量洪揭幕啟用。我最喜歡走在橋上，向九徑山方向望，掘強又正氣得白千層拙壯於平靜如鏡的水塘旁，顯得像守護者。

橋的空間淺窄，大家不要霸路拍照不理會其他登峽士啊～

After visiting Lam Tei Reservoir, I pass Lam Tei Street. There are many authentic tea rooms to observe the daily lives of the local people in Tuen Mun. As a Tseung Kwan O resident, Tuen Mun is a long distance away but the delights you get here are worth coming back for.

參觀完藍地水塘可順便到藍地大街，有不少地道茶室，觀察屯門人的日常起居。作為將軍澳人，屯門真的是大長征，到這裡的驚喜值得我們一來再來。

"There is something magical about this place that makes me feel like it's hiding something every time. It makes me want to come back again even to the point of not wanting to leave.”

「這個地方有種魔力，每一次都讓我感覺它在隱藏什麼，令我三翻四次地再次到訪，甚至到最後不捨得離開。」

The place I would like to introduce today is Hok Tsui or Cape D'Aguilar. It is a peninsula to the south of Shek O in Hong Kong. A coastal reserve inhabited by valuable organisms. Water and coastal recreational activities, such as swimming, boating, fishing or gathering wildlife are not allowed in the area except for permitted scientific research. Some sections are private areas and belong to The Swire Institute of Marine Science of the University of Hong Kong and a radio transmitting station. The public is not allowed to enter the area. What’s so special about this place? Why take all the trouble to come here?

今天要介紹的地方是鶴咀。它是香港石澳以南的一個半島，亦是一個海岸保護區，意指當地有珍貴的生物棲息，除了獲准進行的科研活動外，一般水上及沿岸康樂活動，例如游泳、船艇活動、釣魚或採集野生動植物或其部分等，都不得在內進行，而部份路段屬香港大學太古海洋研究所及電台發射站範圍等私人地方，一般公眾人士不可隨意進入。設下種種關卡，到底這裡有什麼特別呢？需要千辛萬苦才到嗎？

To get to Hok Tsui, just take bus no. 9 at Shau Kei Wan and get off at the roundabout at Hok Tsui. It is a Grade 1 hiking trail on a concrete road, with a view of Tai Tam Bay from the trees on the right and views of the Stanley Peninsula, Stanley Prison, the Peak and the satellite station on the other side. It takes 5 hours to complete the 8.5km route not including filming and is physically demanding.

前往鶴咀只需在筲箕灣，乘座9號巴士前往鶴咀的回旋處位下車，全程都是石屎路，屬1級行山路線，間中可以從右邊的樹叢窺見大潭灣景色，還可遠眺對岸的赤柱半島，例如赤柱監獄、斜炮頂及衛星通訊站。全程8.5公里，不計拍攝都要5小時，對體力有一定要求。

On my first visit to Hok Tsui, I went straight to see the wave eroded Lui Yin Cave, as most people usually do. The cave, which rumbles loudly from time to time, is exhilarating and is lined with stone towers stacked on top of each other. Some say this place is for making a blessing or a wish, others say it is a remembrance of the dead. If it is the former, I wish for the marine garbage in front of me to disappear! Apart from Lui Yin Cave, there are many other natural wonders in Hok Tsui including the 'Crab Cave'. When viewed from the top, you see the shape of a giant crab claw. I remember the first time I stood on an exposed rock to watch the sunset with a 360-degree view of the coast. I thought I was far away at the end of the earth. The solid, regular rocks beneath your feet were formed after a volcanic eruption 100 million years ago during the Jurassic period. Each one is different, from volcanic rock, granite, pink rhyolite and black basalt, with rocks symbolising different eras. Geology enthusiasts often say that rocks are a history book, sometimes counting the layers of rocks to see how many times a volcano has erupted.

第一次到訪鶴咀，我和一般人一樣，首先直奔至鶴咀看被海浪侵蝕的雷音洞。這個洞時而發出隆隆巨響，很震憾，旁邊放滿了一個個石頭疊起的石塔，有人指是祝福及許願，有人說是記念死去的人，如果是前者，我希望可以讓面前的海洋垃圾消失。除了雷音洞，鶴咀還有很多自然奇觀，包括從洞頂下望呈巨形蟹鉗狀的「蟹洞」。我記得自己第一次已站在外露的岩石山上賞日落，360度的海岸視野，以為自己遠在天涯海角。萬沒想到腳下堅固又規則的岩石，原來在1億6400萬年前竟是火山區，岩石都是侏羅紀時期，火山爆發形成的，每一個都不同，有火山凝灰岩、花崗閃長岩、粉紅色的流紋岩和黑色的玄武岩，不同的岩石象徵不同時間發生的事，所以地質愛好者常說，石頭是一本歷史書，有時數著岩石的層理，可以知道火山爆發了多少次。

The first time I went to Hok Tsui I only saw the natural wonders. I forgot about the people and the ravages of war. I came back less than two months later, but this time with camping gear because I decided to stay overnight. With a full 24 hours ahead, I hope to capture all the sights.

第一次到鶴咀只賞了自然奇觀，卻忘了人的溫度，戰爭的洗禮。所以不夠兩個月我又來了，但今次是重裝，因為我決定要在這裡留一晚，我就不信留足24小時還會錯過那一面。

Walk along the concrete road until you reach Nga Choy Hang Village post box, there is an entrance on the right and you will see a fort. In the late 1930s, the British Army decided to strengthen the defences of Hong Kong Island in response to the threat of invasion and built three temporary forts on the southern shore of Hong Kong Island, one of which is Hok Tsui Fort. This coastal battery was completed in 1939 and included a 4-inch coastal defence gun, a command tower, searchlights, ammunition magazines, lookouts and a fort, as well as the Bokhara Fort at the top. Although it is now in ruins, the two-storey structure is still intact. I couldn't help but gasp as I stepped over the piles of stones and climbed up to the observation deck. It's hard to imagine the war and the pandemonium with the blue sea in view. But In 1941, the Japanese invaded Hong Kong in the Pacific War attacking by land from north to south. Coastal forts did not do much then.

侵威脅，決定加強香港島的防衛，因此在香港島南岸建三座臨時炮台，其中一座就是包括鶴咀炮台。這個沿岸的炮台於1939年完工，除了4吋海防炮，還有指揮塔、探射燈、彈藥庫、瞭望台及堡壘等設施，更在高處設博加拉炮台。雖然現在已是頹垣敗瓦，但仍保留兩層高設計，步步驚心的踩著人們堆砌的石頭爬上瞭望台，我不禁嘩了出聲，蔚藍的大海視野，很難想像戰火紛飛，污煙瘴氣的模樣...就在1941年，日本發動太平洋戰爭入侵香港，日軍採取由北向南的陸上攻勢，海岸炮台沒多大作用。

On the night of 8 December, the Japanese were advancing towards the western part of Hong Kong. The following day, the British commander decided to close the defences and concentrate on Stanley Peninsula. Upon receiving the order to retreat, the garrison at Hok Tsui Fort destroyed the facilities to prevent it from being used by the Japanese. After the liberation of Hong Kong in 1945, the fort was abandoned until 2009 when it was classified as a Grade II listed building. Is it a pity to think that Hok Tsui Fort was abandoned? A building can be blown up without a second thought because of a strategic decision, but a war that kills lives is an unforgivable outcome.

在12月8日晚上，日軍向香港西部步步步進迫，翌日英指揮決定收縮防線，集中兵力於赤柱半島一帶，駐守鶴咀炮台的守軍接到撤退指令後隨即破壞炮台設施，避免炮台被日軍利用。在1945年香港重光，鶴咀炮台就被荒廢了，直至2009年被列為二級歷史建築。認為鶴咀炮台是未戰先死的棄卒很可惜？一個建築可以因為戰略決定，不假思索地炸掉，但一場戰爭殺死的生命，決不是可理解的結果。

After seeing the fort, having tasted the last bowl of tofu pudding and seen the century-old watchtower, it's time to head to Crab Cave to take pictures of the sunset. Note that the sun rises and falls at different times of the year. Only in winter is the sunset in front of you, and as the name suggests, Hok Tsui has a long enough beak to let the salted egg yolk sun land on the horizon and then disappear. The long night begins.  But since tents are forbidden in Hok Tsui, I had to spend the night on the concrete floor, cuddled up in a sleeping bag. My dad used to say I've gotten bolder since I became a YouTuber, but I'm just not too concerned about the consequences. If I’d expected to see wild dogs wandering around at midnight, sleeping with insects and a cold wind, I wouldn't have the nerve to come. The online starry sky photo I expected to see was shattered by the full moon at sunset. It didn't matter, there's still sunrise, that's what I told myself. I’ll try to stay awake until after 4am.

看完炮台回到士多，嘗完最後一碗豆腐花，看過有過百年歷史的更樓，就要準備到蟹洞附近拍攝日落。大家要留意，不同季節太陽升降的位置都有差，只有冬天夕陽才正在前方，加上鶴咀地如其名，嘴巴夠長，剛好看到咸蛋黃在海平線降落，然後消散...漫長的夜晚開始了，因為鶴咀嚴禁塔帳篷，所以我只可在一塊石屎級，抱著睡袋過一晚。老爸常說我做YouTuber後膽子大了，其實我只是不太顧後果，如果我一早預到午夜有野狗遊走，與蛟蟲共眠，還冷風陣陣，那給我一百個膽我都不會去。在網上預期看到的星空照片，因為正夕滿月而夢碎了，但沒關系還有日出，我就是這樣跟自己說，昏昏沈沈地捱到凌晨四點多....

I went back to the concrete road in the dark, and on the left side of the diversion road to the lighthouse, there is a staircase up to the power station, and when you go up there, you will come to the Bokhara Fort on the left side where can see the white lighthouse in the distance. If the sun rises slowly, it is as beautiful as those you see in Europe. At that time, I waited optimistically. But there were only white clouds. Just as I was wandering around in dismay, a salted egg yolk sun peeked through the clouds and lasted only a minute or so, but I was satisfied. Life is like this. The greater the expectation, the greater the disappointment. Let it go. Then, even if you only get a little, it will become a gain. In fact, it's all about attitude. Learning to be grateful is the best way to love yourself.

摸黑回到石屎路，在前往燈塔的分差路，左手邊有一條樓梯上發電站，上去後靠左邊走就會到博加拉炮台，因為可以遠眺白色燈塔，如果配上太陽緩緩升起，肯定比起歐洲各國的還美！當時，我還滿懷樂觀地等待著...怎料白雲密布一場空。正當我失敗透頂，四處閒逛的時候，一顆咸蛋黃在雲層中探頭，雖然只持續了一分鐘左右，但我都心滿意足了。人生就是這樣，愈大期望愈大失望，沒希望了隨緣吧，那怕只得到一點點，就會變成額外收獲，其實都是心態決定高度，學會感恩是對自己最大的寬容。

On my first visit to Hok Tsui, I was unable to see the lighthouse as it was under renovation. The English name of the lighthouse is "Cape D'Aguilar Lighthouse", in honour of Major General D'Aguilar, the first Lieutenant Governor of Hong Kong and Commander-in-Chief of the British Army in Hong Kong. Unfortunately, after the Wag Lan Lighthouse opened in 1893, the Cape D'Aguilar Lighthouse ceased operation in 1896, and the light did not come on again until 1975, when the lighthouse was operated automatically. The lighthouse is a 9.7-metre-high cylindrical building made from granite. The base and arched entrance are made of roughly cut stone blocks, and the iron gate above the entrance is decorated with geometric patterns. Now a declared monument, it is a pity that it is not possible to enter the building to see it, but you can still take pictures outside.

第一次到鶴咀，當時燈塔正在翻新無緣看到，第二次終於看到了。鶴咀燈塔的英文名是「德己立角燈塔」，以紀念香港第一任副總督和駐港英軍總司令的德己立少將。但可惜在1893年橫瀾燈塔啟用，鶴咀燈塔就在1896年停運，直到1975年燈塔改為自動化操作，燈光才再次亮起。鶴咀燈塔是一座由花崗石築砌的圓筒形建築，高9.7米，燈塔底座和拱形入口均由粗琢石塊砌成，入口的鐵門上方飾有幾何圖案，現在法定古蹟，可惜不能入內一觀，但在外拍網美照都很夠。

Remember what I said about the magic of Hok Tsui? I went back twice a while ago because of the sunrise and starry sky, and I finally managed to capture it. The sun was greeted by the morning mist revealing its red face, and the sea was coloured yellow by the golden light. The sunrise helped to recharge my energy. Even though I don't know what would happen in the future, I was at least hopeful at that moment, thanks to the light. I don't know if it's greed, but I still wanted to photograph its shooting stars and burning sky. Here, I laughed out loud. In this high-rise city of Hong Kong, here is a place where I can see the sunrise, sunset and starry sky. Is it because I am trying to escape from reality to give me an excuse to explore this beautiful area again?

記得我說鶴咀有魔力嗎？因為日出星空，我前陣子又去了兩次，黃天不負有心人，終於讓我拍到了。太陽在朝霞的迎接中，露出红彤彤的面，萬道金光染黃了大海。日出可以幫我充電，縱然不知往後會發生什麼，但靠著那剎那的光茫，起碼我那刻是充滿希望的。不知是的貪心，還是鶴咀有毒，我還想拍下它的流星、燒天...寫到這裡不奇然地笑了出來，在香港這個高樓密集的城市裡，有一個地方，可以看到日出、夕陽、星空，我應該是想逃離現實，才想起反覆探索的藉口嗎？

 “If the sound of roaring waves is exhilarating, calm waters are medicine for all who are tired and need to cleanse their souls. If you feel you are ready to start again, come to Crescent Island.”

「如果洶湧的浪聲令人感到激昂，那平靜如水的鏡面，必定是人們走累了，洗滌心靈的藥，如果你 需要重新出發，就來娥眉洲吧。」

Crescent Island also known as Ngo Mei Chau is very appealing with its martial arts inspired name and its U-shaped viewed from above resembling a crescent moon. Although it is close to Yan Chau Tong Marine Park, it is just outside the boundary with Wan Chau separated by a straight coastline. Although it is not part of the Marine Park, its ecological landscape value should not be underestimated.

娥眉洲，這個具武俠特色的名字已經很吸引了，再加上高空看呈現U型，故英文名為Crescent Island，意指新月。它雖然靠近印洲塘海岸公園，卻剛好與灣洲相隔了一條直門海岸，而置於界線 之外。它雖然不屬海岸公園範圍，其生態地貌價值不容輕視。

The U-shaped Crescent Bay creates calm waters that nurture colourful corals. Queen Elizabeth once visited this place before Hong Kong’s reunification, giving this place a sense of nobility. Most people come here for snorkelling and camping but with an island of this size, how can one just stay on the beach? I was convinced that the hidden charms of Crescent Island were yet to be discovered so I decided to take a trip to the other side of the island.

娥眉灣因呈U形，形成平靜水域，孕育七彩珊瑚。回歸前，英女皇曾到訪，令此地多了一份貴族的神聖感。大部分人只會在娥眉灣浮潛露營，然而一個面積這麼大的島嶼，怎能駐足於沙灘？我很  相信，娥眉洲的隱藏魅力有待發掘，所以決定往島的另一面走一轉。

We came with our camping gear to stay here for two days and one night, determined to explore different parts of the island. There is no ferry service or pier at Crescent Island. We had to contact a boatman to get here. My companion Ah Hang and I set off from Wong Shek Pier and the boat ride took about 20 minutes. When we arrived at Crescent Bay, we hastily opened a tent, put our bags in and then took our pre-packed waterproof backpacks back to the boat and asked the boatman to take us to the east side of Lo Kei Wan. After a boat ride along the land route that we will be exploring today, I realized it’s going to be a long hike! Oh dear, I should have just come for a barbecue! Too late now!

我們帶同露營用具來兩日一夜，決意要海陸空全方位探索。娥眉洲沒有渡輪服務及碼頭，所以要  自行聯絡船家前往。我和同伴阿恒在黃石碼頭出發，船程大約20分鐘。到達娥眉灣後，我們急忙 開了一個營帳，將行裝放進去，再拿事先收拾好的防水背包重回船上，拜托船家載我們到東面的 籮箕灣，坐著船沿路經過今天即將綑邊的路線，才發覺 真是大長征呀～不如坐船遊覽然後回去燒烤吧！

Joking aside, any path taken is a real adventure. As soon as we got off the boat, we saw the strange rock 'Dragon Drop' on the right-hand side of Lo Kei Wan. The rocks along the edge of the mountain have been eroded by weather and looks like a lazy dragon swimming slowly into the water. It's not easy to stand on the back of the narrow dragon and stay calm. My feet were trembling, so I decided to give up standing.

說笑的，用雙腳走過的路才是真正的探索。一下船就見到籮箕灣右手邊的怪石「龍落水」，沿著山邊的岩石因風化侵蝕而變得斷落有致，好像一條懶洋洋的巨龍，慢慢游進水裡，站在淺窄的龍背上，裝作陣定神氣不容易呀～易腳軟的人還是放棄做龍的傳人吧。

After taking photos, we headed towards the left side of Lo Kei Wan. Fortunately, the sea was calm. The tide was out. I could walk through the water which was nice. This did not last long! Once I left Chik Mun Channel. the waves started to build. I had to walk carefully along the rocks. I didn't know then that the road ahead was about to be the most challenging I have ever embarked in my life! After walking for about half an hour, I saw a fault in the side of the hill, cut open on both sides to create a passage just large enough for one person to pass through, with a large boulder above my head which sealed the top. This scene reminded me of the movie 127 Hours, where the hero's hand was stuck in a boulder inside a canyon. It took him more than five days to free himself. There is no point in trying to conquer nature but to learn to respect it for accommodating us.

拍照後，我們就正式朝籮箕灣左手邊走，幸好海面平靜正值退潮，我可以涉水而行，涼浸浸舒服 多了，但好日子不長，離開直門海峽後，海浪開始大，安全起見要走岩石，當時我還不知道，前面的路即將是我人生中最高難度及危險的一次綑邊，難度系數絕對是爆星！走了大概半小時，看見山邊出現斷層，斬開兩邊有一條通道，剛好夠一人身位通過，頭上的大石像積木，拼巧封了頂，這 個情景讓我想起外國電影127小時，男主的手卡在峽谷的大石裡，經過5天多的努力才解救出來。

人類置身大自然顯得渺少，意圖征服它是沒意思的，不如學會敬偎感謝它容納我們。

After spending some time here, I didn't realise that the highlight of the day was just around the corner! There is very little information about Crescent Island on the internet, but there is mention of a stone arch bridge shaped like a sacred stove. I have seen a lot of sea eroded arches, but this is the first time I have seen an arch bridge built into a mountain. It is 20-30 metres in height from top to bottom. I tried to walk up but there were no giant trees on either side for support. The gravel consists of stones in different sizes. It was impossible to estimate the depth. It’s quite scary, if it wasn't for good skills and experience, a normal person would never get up there. You walk one step ahead and you slip half a metre down. I was crawling on the ground, unable to move, not daring to grab the rocks next to me, as none of them were solid. In the end, I had to sit down and descend slowly. This punctured a hole in my trousers. A lesson for me to be more vigilant!

玩了一會兒峽谷，卻不知今天的重頭戲就在轉角。網上對娥眉洲的資料甚少，其中提及有一座石拱橋，形似一個神仙灶台。海蝕拱就見得多，但一個依山而成的拱橋是第一次見。由下以上望目測有20-30米。阿恒嘗試正壁走上去，兩邊沒有巨樹借力，地下碎石大小不一，更無法估計深度， 真是一步一驚心，若不是有他這般好身手又富經驗，正常人絕對上不去，掘強的我硬要試就差點出事！走一步，下滑半米，整個人爬在地上動彈不得，雙手又不敢亂抓旁邊的石頭，因為沒一塊是實在的，最後只可坐著慢慢下降，褲子又穿了個洞，當買個教訓吧。

There are two strange trees in front of the sacred stove. One triangular and the other rooted in rocky outcrop. Ah Heng said that there were three pillars of branches in front of the door. This resembled the incense and goes well with the sacred stove. What looks ordinary to us can be enriched with a little imagination. "You can make fun of it, but I think it's because one sees what others don't."

神仙灶前有兩棵怪樹，一個呈三角形，一個盤根岩石份外滄桑。阿恒說門前有三柱樹枝，像極敬香，同神仙灶吻合。在我們眼中平平無奇的東西，只要加點想像力就豐富多了。「你可以取笑這是自得其樂，但我反而認為，是我們看到你看不到的。」

Hiking along Crescent Island is not as simple as climbing rocks. You need to pass a 60-degree slope that requires extraordinary technique to keep your balance and hold your body against the rocks so that you are lying forward and not falling backwards down the slope or into the sea. The scariest thing is that the east side of Crescent Island has been eroded by waves for years, so the rocky shore appeared to be a straight line. When you get close you find that it is concave. You are forced to swim across to the other side. In fact, I am not an expert climber, so I had to rely on Ah Heng to remind me which rock to step on. I had to climb the rock with my bare hands, leaning against the cliff and moving across carefully. It's important to have company on a hike.

娥眉洲綑邊已不是攀爬岩石這麼簡單，會經過一些60度斜的岩坡，必須採用三點不動一點動的技 術，保持平衡，身體靠向岩石，無論如何都是向前躺，而不會向後跌下坡或海裡。最可怕的是，娥眉洲東面長年受海浪侵蝕，看似一條直線的岩岸，靠近才發覺是凹進去的，所以被迫要下水游過去對岸。其實我不是攀爬高手，不少位置都要靠阿恒提醒，才知道要踩哪一塊石頭才穩妥，其中一個位置要徒手攀抓岩石，背靠削壁小心翼翼地橫移過去，小一點手力都不行，我嚇得不敢往後看，現在回想，都不知自己哪來的神力，可能是因為我知道，前方有一雙友誼之手會抓緊我吧，所以...同伴真的很重要啊。

The next must-see is the triple cave 'Hok Tsui Wan' just around the corner from the long rocky outcrop. The unobstructed rocky shore forms a straight line, as far as the eye can see. It took us more than three hours and we aren’t even halfway in our journey. The heat accelerated our physical exertion and as we saw many boats pass by, we shouted for one of them to give us a lift but in vain! If it were that easy, there would be no story to tell.

下一個必到地貌是三連洞「鶴咀環」，就在前方的長岩轉角，無遮擋的岩岸成一條直線，遠在天邊 近在眼前。我們花了三個多小時還沒走完行程的一半，天氣酷熱加速體力消耗，沿途見到很多船  家走過，我們決定放膽一試，大聲呼喊希望其中一個可以拔刀相助，送我們一程，當然這是天荒   夜譚...要是這麼容易就不會有後來的故事啦。

After continuously wetting and drying our hair, we came to a cave that was not marked on the map. I thought it would be a normal cave. It was smooth and wavy just like the wavy cave in Clearwater Bay. When we went a little further, we found a cave within a cave. When I shone my torch, three bats flew out! I was so scared that I crouched down and held my head. Although we had discovered somewhere new, it was not a place we would stay for long and we left shortly.

頭髮濕了又乾，乾了又再濕，不知過了多久，我們來到一個地圖上都沒有標明的海蝕洞。原本以  為平平無奇，怎料洞紋竟是平滑的波浪狀，像極清水灣的紐紋洞，再走進一點更發現是洞中洞，  我用電筒一照竟有三隻編幅飛撲出來，我嚇得原地蹲下抱緊頭。雖然我們成功發現新大陸，但此 地不宜久留，最好速速離開。

"We seem to have arrived at Hok Tsui Wan," Ah Heng said.

「我們好像到了鶴咀環」阿恒說。

"I feel like anyone who tells me anything now is lying to me." I replied helplessly.

「現在任何人跟我說什麼，我都覺得是在騙我。」我無奈地回答。

Why did I think this? The landscape of Crescent Island or Ngo Mei Chau with its martial arts-inspired name has a sacred cave and then a spider spirit cave. The erosion of the sea has carved three holes of different sizes and lengths, from small to large, just like an ancient cave. The two of us dived in and out of the cave. As I was about to dive in, my bottom got stuck on a sea nettle as soon as I sat down. The hole I created in the sacred cave was now even bigger.

是有多無助才這樣想呢～大概是感受不到腳的存在吧...娥眉洲的地貌與其帶有武俠特色的名字 一樣，先是神仙灶，後有蜘蛛精洞。海水侵蝕的刻意雕琢，形成三個大小長短不一的洞，剛好由矮至高，就像一個古洞一般。古怪的我兩在洞間穿來穿去，怎料洞如其名，掛得一身蜘蛛網，正當我想沖下去沖一沖，一坐下去就被水底裡的海刺卡到屁股，原本在神仙灶弄破的洞現在更大了，痛死我～

It was almost 6 o'clock when we left Hok Tsui Wan. It was getting dark and there was a bit of burning sky which was a joy to see after a long day. We slowed down and walked slowly, "Because no matter how fast you walk, time still goes by quickly. Instead of racing against time, let's enjoy the moment." Of course, headlamps and torches are essential. It is not advisable to visit this place at night as it is treacherous.

從鶴咀環離開時已接近6點多，天色漸暗，有少許燒天，算是今天辛苦行程的一點安慰，我兩放慢腳步慢慢走，「因為不論走得多快，都不及時間過得快，如其與它競賽，不如好好享受當下吧。」當然，頭燈電筒這些是必須的，而入夜綑邊有一定的危險，不建議大家學習啊～