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Crescent Island 娥眉洲

Crescent Island 娥眉洲

 “If the sound of roaring waves is exhilarating, calm waters are medicine for all who are tired and need to cleanse their souls. If you feel you are ready to start again, come to Crescent Island.”

「如果洶湧的浪聲令人感到激昂,那平靜如水的鏡面,必定是人們走累了,洗滌心靈的藥,如果你 需要重新出發,就來娥眉洲吧。」


Crescent Island also known as Ngo Mei Chau is very appealing with its martial arts inspired name and its U-shaped viewed from above resembling a crescent moon. Although it is close to Yan Chau Tong Marine Park, it is just outside the boundary with Wan Chau separated by a straight coastline. Although it is not part of the Marine Park, its ecological landscape value should not be underestimated.

娥眉洲,這個具武俠特色的名字已經很吸引了,再加上高空看呈現U型,故英文名為Crescent Island,意指新月。它雖然靠近印洲塘海岸公園,卻剛好與灣洲相隔了一條直門海岸,而置於界線 之外。它雖然不屬海岸公園範圍,其生態地貌價值不容輕視。


The U-shaped Crescent Bay creates calm waters that nurture colourful corals. Queen Elizabeth once visited this place before Hong Kong’s reunification, giving this place a sense of nobility. Most people come here for snorkelling and camping but with an island of this size, how can one just stay on the beach? I was convinced that the hidden charms of Crescent Island were yet to be discovered so I decided to take a trip to the other side of the island.

娥眉灣因呈U形,形成平靜水域,孕育七彩珊瑚。回歸前,英女皇曾到訪,令此地多了一份貴族的神聖感。大部分人只會在娥眉灣浮潛露營,然而一個面積這麼大的島嶼,怎能駐足於沙灘?我很  相信,娥眉洲的隱藏魅力有待發掘,所以決定往島的另一面走一轉。


We came with our camping gear to stay here for two days and one night, determined to explore different parts of the island. There is no ferry service or pier at Crescent Island. We had to contact a boatman to get here. My companion Ah Hang and I set off from Wong Shek Pier and the boat ride took about 20 minutes. When we arrived at Crescent Bay, we hastily opened a tent, put our bags in and then took our pre-packed waterproof backpacks back to the boat and asked the boatman to take us to the east side of Lo Kei Wan. After a boat ride along the land route that we will be exploring today, I realized it’s going to be a long hike! Oh dear, I should have just come for a barbecue! Too late now!

我們帶同露營用具來兩日一夜,決意要海陸空全方位探索。娥眉洲沒有渡輪服務及碼頭,所以要  自行聯絡船家前往。我和同伴阿恒在黃石碼頭出發,船程大約20分鐘。到達娥眉灣後,我們急忙 開了一個營帳,將行裝放進去,再拿事先收拾好的防水背包重回船上,拜托船家載我們到東面的 籮箕灣,坐著船沿路經過今天即將綑邊的路線,才發覺 真是大長征呀~不如坐船遊覽然後回去燒烤吧!


Joking aside, any path taken is a real adventure. As soon as we got off the boat, we saw the strange rock 'Dragon Drop' on the right-hand side of Lo Kei Wan. The rocks along the edge of the mountain have been eroded by weather and looks like a lazy dragon swimming slowly into the water. It's not easy to stand on the back of the narrow dragon and stay calm. My feet were trembling, so I decided to give up standing.




After taking photos, we headed towards the left side of Lo Kei Wan. Fortunately, the sea was calm. The tide was out. I could walk through the water which was nice. This did not last long! Once I left Chik Mun Channel. the waves started to build. I had to walk carefully along the rocks. I didn't know then that the road ahead was about to be the most challenging I have ever embarked in my life! After walking for about half an hour, I saw a fault in the side of the hill, cut open on both sides to create a passage just large enough for one person to pass through, with a large boulder above my head which sealed the top. This scene reminded me of the movie 127 Hours, where the hero's hand was stuck in a boulder inside a canyon. It took him more than five days to free himself. There is no point in trying to conquer nature but to learn to respect it for accommodating us.

拍照後,我們就正式朝籮箕灣左手邊走,幸好海面平靜正值退潮,我可以涉水而行,涼浸浸舒服 多了,但好日子不長,離開直門海峽後,海浪開始大,安全起見要走岩石,當時我還不知道,前面的路即將是我人生中最高難度及危險的一次綑邊,難度系數絕對是爆星!走了大概半小時,看見山邊出現斷層,斬開兩邊有一條通道,剛好夠一人身位通過,頭上的大石像積木,拼巧封了頂,這 個情景讓我想起外國電影127小時,男主的手卡在峽谷的大石裡,經過5天多的努力才解救出來。



After spending some time here, I didn't realise that the highlight of the day was just around the corner! There is very little information about Crescent Island on the internet, but there is mention of a stone arch bridge shaped like a sacred stove. I have seen a lot of sea eroded arches, but this is the first time I have seen an arch bridge built into a mountain. It is 20-30 metres in height from top to bottom. I tried to walk up but there were no giant trees on either side for support. The gravel consists of stones in different sizes. It was impossible to estimate the depth. It’s quite scary, if it wasn't for good skills and experience, a normal person would never get up there. You walk one step ahead and you slip half a metre down. I was crawling on the ground, unable to move, not daring to grab the rocks next to me, as none of them were solid. In the end, I had to sit down and descend slowly. This punctured a hole in my trousers. A lesson for me to be more vigilant!

玩了一會兒峽谷,卻不知今天的重頭戲就在轉角。網上對娥眉洲的資料甚少,其中提及有一座石拱橋,形似一個神仙灶台。海蝕拱就見得多,但一個依山而成的拱橋是第一次見。由下以上望目測有20-30米。阿恒嘗試正壁走上去,兩邊沒有巨樹借力,地下碎石大小不一,更無法估計深度, 真是一步一驚心,若不是有他這般好身手又富經驗,正常人絕對上不去,掘強的我硬要試就差點出事!走一步,下滑半米,整個人爬在地上動彈不得,雙手又不敢亂抓旁邊的石頭,因為沒一塊是實在的,最後只可坐著慢慢下降,褲子又穿了個洞,當買個教訓吧。


There are two strange trees in front of the sacred stove. One triangular and the other rooted in rocky outcrop. Ah Heng said that there were three pillars of branches in front of the door. This resembled the incense and goes well with the sacred stove. What looks ordinary to us can be enriched with a little imagination. "You can make fun of it, but I think it's because one sees what others don't."



Hiking along Crescent Island is not as simple as climbing rocks. You need to pass a 60-degree slope that requires extraordinary technique to keep your balance and hold your body against the rocks so that you are lying forward and not falling backwards down the slope or into the sea. The scariest thing is that the east side of Crescent Island has been eroded by waves for years, so the rocky shore appeared to be a straight line. When you get close you find that it is concave. You are forced to swim across to the other side. In fact, I am not an expert climber, so I had to rely on Ah Heng to remind me which rock to step on. I had to climb the rock with my bare hands, leaning against the cliff and moving across carefully. It's important to have company on a hike.

娥眉洲綑邊已不是攀爬岩石這麼簡單,會經過一些60度斜的岩坡,必須採用三點不動一點動的技 術,保持平衡,身體靠向岩石,無論如何都是向前躺,而不會向後跌下坡或海裡。最可怕的是,娥眉洲東面長年受海浪侵蝕,看似一條直線的岩岸,靠近才發覺是凹進去的,所以被迫要下水游過去對岸。其實我不是攀爬高手,不少位置都要靠阿恒提醒,才知道要踩哪一塊石頭才穩妥,其中一個位置要徒手攀抓岩石,背靠削壁小心翼翼地橫移過去,小一點手力都不行,我嚇得不敢往後看,現在回想,都不知自己哪來的神力,可能是因為我知道,前方有一雙友誼之手會抓緊我吧,所以...同伴真的很重要啊。



The next must-see is the triple cave 'Hok Tsui Wan' just around the corner from the long rocky outcrop. The unobstructed rocky shore forms a straight line, as far as the eye can see. It took us more than three hours and we aren’t even halfway in our journey. The heat accelerated our physical exertion and as we saw many boats pass by, we shouted for one of them to give us a lift but in vain! If it were that easy, there would be no story to tell.

下一個必到地貌是三連洞「鶴咀環」,就在前方的長岩轉角,無遮擋的岩岸成一條直線,遠在天邊 近在眼前。我們花了三個多小時還沒走完行程的一半,天氣酷熱加速體力消耗,沿途見到很多船  家走過,我們決定放膽一試,大聲呼喊希望其中一個可以拔刀相助,送我們一程,當然這是天荒   夜譚...要是這麼容易就不會有後來的故事啦。


After continuously wetting and drying our hair, we came to a cave that was not marked on the map. I thought it would be a normal cave. It was smooth and wavy just like the wavy cave in Clearwater Bay. When we went a little further, we found a cave within a cave. When I shone my torch, three bats flew out! I was so scared that I crouched down and held my head. Although we had discovered somewhere new, it was not a place we would stay for long and we left shortly.

頭髮濕了又乾,乾了又再濕,不知過了多久,我們來到一個地圖上都沒有標明的海蝕洞。原本以  為平平無奇,怎料洞紋竟是平滑的波浪狀,像極清水灣的紐紋洞,再走進一點更發現是洞中洞,  我用電筒一照竟有三隻編幅飛撲出來,我嚇得原地蹲下抱緊頭。雖然我們成功發現新大陸,但此 地不宜久留,最好速速離開。


"We seem to have arrived at Hok Tsui Wan," Ah Heng said.



"I feel like anyone who tells me anything now is lying to me." I replied helplessly.



Why did I think this? The landscape of Crescent Island or Ngo Mei Chau with its martial arts-inspired name has a sacred cave and then a spider spirit cave. The erosion of the sea has carved three holes of different sizes and lengths, from small to large, just like an ancient cave. The two of us dived in and out of the cave. As I was about to dive in, my bottom got stuck on a sea nettle as soon as I sat down. The hole I created in the sacred cave was now even bigger.

是有多無助才這樣想呢~大概是感受不到腳的存在吧...娥眉洲的地貌與其帶有武俠特色的名字 一樣,先是神仙灶,後有蜘蛛精洞。海水侵蝕的刻意雕琢,形成三個大小長短不一的洞,剛好由矮至高,就像一個古洞一般。古怪的我兩在洞間穿來穿去,怎料洞如其名,掛得一身蜘蛛網,正當我想沖下去沖一沖,一坐下去就被水底裡的海刺卡到屁股,原本在神仙灶弄破的洞現在更大了,痛死我~


It was almost 6 o'clock when we left Hok Tsui Wan. It was getting dark and there was a bit of burning sky which was a joy to see after a long day. We slowed down and walked slowly, "Because no matter how fast you walk, time still goes by quickly. Instead of racing against time, let's enjoy the moment." Of course, headlamps and torches are essential. It is not advisable to visit this place at night as it is treacherous.




My eyesight is not good after nightfall. I had to rely on my hiking partner. Fortunately, the road to Crescent Bay was not too steep and I could walk along the rocky beach. There were many fishing boats moored in the bay, some diving for fish while a few boatmen chatted happily while we walked around sweating profusely. It is interesting and funny to see how people experience the same world in different ways.

入夜後我的眼睛不大好,唯有依靠友誼之手前進。幸好至娥眉灣的路起伏都不大,可以沿石灘澗水行。內灣中有不少釣船停泊,有的在潛水捕魚,有的在歡醉聊天,而我們卻走得大汗淋灕,同一  個世界,大家選擇不同的體驗方式,有趣又好笑。


It was 9 pm when we got back to Crescent Bay. We put up a canopy with chandeliers to create a lovely setting. As Ah Heng is vegetarian, we made vegetarian pork hamburgers. The best thing about being out in the wild in summer is drinking frozen coke. Proves my ice pack is good! Crescent Bay is a U-shaped inlet where the breeze blows at night but does not create waves. The first time I camped by the sea, I heard the sound of cicadas instead of waves. Ah Heng told me not to mind the noise of the cicadas because with them we avoided being bitten by mosquitoes!

回到娥眉灣已經晚上9點,我們還有興致起了天幕,掛上吊燈營造氣氛。因為阿恒食素,我們就弄 了素豬肉漢包,夏天在野外最幸福的事,就是有冰凍可樂,實證我的冰袋不錯啊~娥眉灣是一個  U形內灣,晚上微風吹過,卻無法牽起波浪。第一次在海邊露營,聽得不是海浪聲,而是蟬聲。阿恒告訴我,不用嫌棄蟬聲噪吵,因為有了他們,我們才避過被蚊蟲咬到變豬頭啊!


After the fish boats left, it was dark. We looked up at the stars and said nothing, just merging ourselves into nature, remembering the pain of the morning, the wonders we had seen, thinking that everything was impossible, but clenching our teeth and getting through it all. All that awaited us was tomorrow's morning light.

等待魚船走後,四周真的漆黑一片,我們抬頭看星,什麼都沒說,就這樣把自己都融入進大自然  裡,回憶早上的辛酸,看見的奇貌,認為一切的不可能,咬著牙關原來就走過了,等待我們的只有 明天的晨光。


I woke up again at 7am to the sound of cicadas. I was sweating and so dived straight into the water. The first time I dived in, I saw familiar red anemones and suddenly a curious little creature peeked out, a clown fish! I was the only one awake in the entire Crescent Bay. I relax completely, didn’t think, or ponder, I just let my body float in the sea.

早上七點又是被蟬聲叫醒,因為太熱了,就直衝下水,第一下閉氣往下潛,看見熟悉的紅色海葵, 突然有一隻滿眼好奇的小不點探頭出來,是小丑魚啊!整個娥眉灣只有我一個,很久沒有完全放  鬆,不拍攝不思考不爭扎,任由身體隨著大海漂浮....



Opposite Crescent Island is a rocky row called Wu Pai. It looks like a fish from above. After breakfast, we swam to the right side of the beach to see coral, then swam out to Wu Pai. It turns out that there are more corals in the shallow water on the right-hand side and one white, round, fat and short one is very cute. I wanted to dive and take a photo of this coral. I missed and my fingers touched a sea nettle. How unfortunate!

娥眉洲對出有一個石排,名叫烏排。高空看像極了一條魚。我們吃完早餐後,就先游去沙灕的右  邊看珊瑚,再游出烏排。原來烏排右手邊的淺水區看到的珊瑚更多,有一個白色圓大肥矮的很可 愛,我本想下潛跟它拍照,怎料一失平衝手指又碰到海刺,真是多災多難的旅程。


There are not many places I would like to return, not because of their mystery, or because they have the most beautiful scenery but because they offer me something that no other place can, and that is 'peace'. In times of confusion and helplessness, I can think in tranquillity and move ahead with determination. It helps me leave my worries behind and recover quietly.

很少有一個地方,我會想一來再來,不是因為它的神秘感吸引我再去探索,也不是它擁有最美的  景色,而是它給予我其他地方不能給的,就是「平靜」。在混亂無助的時刻,平靜地想思考衡量自 已的能力,堅毅地往前走;在無力軟弱的時候,助我暫時拋開煩腦,平靜地恢復。

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