Cheung Tsui 長咀

"It’s often been said that one is allowed to be reckless twice in life. One is when it comes to love and the other is travel. But with the current situation, where can we go in Hong Kong?”

「聽說，⼈⽣有兩次任性，⼀次是奮不顧⾝的愛情，第⼆次是說走就走的旅程，但在香港，我們能走去哪裡？」

That's when I got the idea to set off on a camping trip. In general, city folks love camping because life is so stressful. Walk into nature and enjoy a moment of calm. But one night out camping is simply not enough. Why not stay a few more days? But then, you wake up to the same scenery and the excitement of adventure is lost. However, a "walking camp" is a totally different matter. You need to carry gear from one camping site to another through high and low hills, valleys, and waterfalls. You also get to meet people from all walks of life. These trips give you great memories.

就這樣，我有了出發走營的念頭。⼀般城市⼈，因為⽣活太壓迫⽽愛上露營，走進⼤⾃然，享受⽚刻的寧靜，但短短的⼀晚𣊬間即逝，換氣都來不及，就要離開了。不然多留幾天，卻都是那⽚風 景，少了遊歷的旅途感。然⽽，「走營」就不同了，孭著裝備由⼀個露營點到另⼀個，走過⾼⼭低⾕、細沙流⽔，遇上不同的⼈，創造旅途的回憶。

My first walking camp took me through four famous beaches in Sai Kung and to Cheung Tsui known as “Land’s End”. Compared to the Maclehose Trail or the Lantau Trail, this a great route with stunning world-class scenery, ideal for new hikers.

我的第⼀次走營經過⻄貢四個著名沙灘，再到有天涯海⾓之稱的長咀，比起麥⾥浩徑、鳳凰徑全走等，這絕對是為初哥度⾝訂造的路線，同時擁有世界級風景。

Route:

Day 1: Sai Wan Kiosk > Tai Long Sai Wan > Ham Tin Wan > Tai Wan Beach (camping)

Day 2: Tai Wan > Tung Wan > Cheung Tsui (camp site)

Day 3: Cheung Tsui > Tung Wan > Tai Wan > Tai Long Au > Chek Kang (take a boat back to Wong Shek Pier / walk from Pak Tam Au)

Total distance: 17 kilometres

Average walking time: 2-3 hours

路線：

第⼀⽇：⻄灣亭>⼤浪⻄灣>鹹⽥灣>⼤灣（扎營）

第⼆⽇：⼤灣>東灣>長咀（扎營）

第三⽇：長咀>東灣>⼤灣>⼤浪坳>赤徑 （可坐船回⿈⽯碼頭/步⾏出北潭坳）

總公⾥： 17公⾥

每天平均步⾏時間： 2-3⼩時

I would like to point out a few key points regarding this route: firstly, equipment should be as light as possible, ideally a comfortable weight of around one-third of body weight; secondly, choose a camp site with water and supplies to reduce load; and thirdly, the exit route should be marked clearly in advance in case there is any unexpected incident, and you need to end the route early.

設計走營路線我歸納有幾⼤重點；⼀，裝備要盡量輕便，舒適負重量為體重得三分⼀；⼆，準量選擇有⽔源及補給的營地，減輕負重； 三，事前標注徹出路線，以防任何突發事情要結束⾏程。

Because of shooting, I had to carry 17 kg of load, but it didn't matter as it was autumn. The sun was shining but not too harsh. The weather was warm. It’s the perfect season for camping. I took a taxi to the starting point at Sai Wan Kiosk and got cheers from other hikers. A group of young men and women were carting provisions along. I think they are planning an outdoor camp. I've always envied camping during my younger days, with a group of friends around a fire, playing the guitar and humming songs. But as I grew older, I enjoyed being alone. Watching other people happy can be infectious.

由於要拍攝關係，我負重17kg，但不要緊，正值秋天，有太陽但不辣眼睛，很溫暖，是露營的好季節。我坐的⼠到⻄灣亭起步，剛好遇到觀眾跟我打氣，記得那是⼀群年輕男女，他們拖著⾞，應該是寫意chill的露營啊～我⼀直都很羨慕⼀群朋友圍著火堆，彈結他哼著歌，回憶往事的露營。但⼈漸⼤，慢慢學會享受⼀個⼈，看著別⼈開⼼會被感染。

It took one hour to walk from Sai Wan Kiosk to Tai Long Sai Wan, pass Man Yee Reservoir. The dark green and warm blue colours of the pools gave an impression of an oil painting. In the distance you saw Kam Kei Shek. This was an easy trail except for a slight incline down from Tsui Tung Au, so take your time. Tai Long Sai Wan has many restaurants where you can replenish provisions. Sai Wan faces directly east towards the Pacific Ocean and is prone to undercurrents due to its shallow waters. There are no shark nets or lifeguards, and there have been many drowning incidents in the past. In fact, it is one of the five most dangerous beaches in Sai Kung. Although the beach is a surfing mecca, be cautious before taking a dip.

⻄灣亭步⾏⾄⼤浪⻄灣需時1⼩時，途經萬宜⽔庫、墨綠暖藍⾊的潭⽔，有種走進油畫的感覺，遠處還看到蠄蟝⽯。這段路很好走，只是由吹筒坳下⾏會有點斜，慢慢走就是了。⼤浪⻄灣有多間⼠ 多，可以補給。⻄灣直接東向太平洋，加上⽔淺易出現暗湧，沒有防鯊網及救⽣員，過去曾多次發⽣泳客遇溺事件，故被稱為「⻄貢五⼤危險沙灘之⼀」。雖然這裡是滑浪聖地，但⼤家下⽔暢泳前要量⼒⽽為。

Follow Sai Wan beach to the second section of Maclehose Trail and set off for the next beach – Kam Tin Wan. This is a government paved footpath and is easy to follow except for a few ramped stairs. Enjoy the endless sea along the way. Soon you’ll pass a stargazing platform in the form of a serpentine. Built by the Agriculture, Fisheries and Conservation Department, it is made of glass fibre and incorporates ergonomics designed for hikers and campers to watch stars. But in my opinion, nature is better when it is simple and pure. Look down and you see cow droppings on the ground, a proof that they belong here among nature.

沿著⻄灣沙灘走接上麥⾥浩徑⼆段，出發去下⼀個沙灘–鹹⽥灣，這是政府舖設的⼭徑，非常好走， 只是要上少量斜路樓梯，沿途都是⼀望無際的⼤海。路過由漁護署興建的蛇形觀星台，據說⽤了玻璃纖維，附合⼈體功學，⽅便遠⾜或露營⼈⼠觀星。但在我看來，⼤⾃然還是簡單純撲⼀點好， 看，地上⽜⽜的糞便才屬於這裡的。

There weren't many people along the way, except for a couple of foreigners each carrying a bottle of red wine. They really know how to enjoy life. “Almost there!” said the lady hiker. Encouragement received but that’s a beautiful lie as it took me at least half an hour to reach Ham Tin Wan beach. The first thing I did was to pick up and touch some sand. Indeed, the sand is white and smooth.

沿路沒⾒幾個⼈，唯有⼀對外藉情侶，他們每⼈背了⼀⽀紅酒，真懂享受⽣活呢～他看我背著龜殼走得吃⼒，就跟我打氣說：Almost there! ( 快到了！）謝謝她的⿎勵，但這句說話是⾏⼭界最⼤的美麗謊⾔呢。花了半⼩時就到鹹⽥灣，第⼀時間是拿起沙摸⼀下，真的比較⽩徹細滑。

Passing through the classic wooden bridge built by the inhabitants of Kam Tin Wan, I reached a tuck shop for some siu mai and tofu pudding. You can add sugar water or syrup into the pudding. But as both are the same colour, it’s easy to mix them up. By now, it’s only a 15-minute walk from Ham Tin Wan to Tai Wan but as it was getting dark, I stopped looking for water source and simply got myself bottles of water from the tuck shop.

經過鹹⽥灣最經典，由居⺠搭建的⼩⽊橋到達⼠多，當然要試⼀下炸燒買及⾖腐花，糖⽔和糖漿的顏⾊太像了，我差點弄錯了，哈哈。由鹹⽥灣走去⼤灣只需15分鐘，天⾊已漸暗，我就不花時間找⽔源了，直接在⼠多買了幾⽀⽔。

Tai Wan is the biggest of the four beaches in the area. The moment I reached this beach, a westerner who looked like Aquaman appeared. At first, I couldn't hear what he said, probably because I was a bit shy...  Oh, he was warning me that wild boars roamed around at night. Before the border was closed, I would always imagine that I would meet Mr. Right one day when I was travelling alone to other places. Perhaps it is the excitement of the unknown that deepens the pleasure of every trip.

⼤灣是四灣中⾯積最⼤的，踏出⼤灣那⼀刻，迎⾯奔來⼀位⾝形外貌都極像⽔⾏俠的外藉男⼦，起初聽不清他說什麼，可能是因為我有點害羞...原來他是提醒我⼩⼼晚上有野豬。未封關前，⼀個⼈獨⾃旅⾏都會幻想會否遇上Mr. RIght，可能是這種未知的興奮，加深了遊歷的樂趣。

I found a flat spot to set up camp and used large rocks to set it down. This is the only way to set up camp in sand without spikes. It was nightfall but I wasn't hungry, so I made a cup of hot chocolate and added in some marshmallows. There is little light pollution here and is a great location for stargazing. I looked up at the stars and remembered what my dad said: "If you can't see the stars, shut your eyes and open them again. You’ll see more when your pupils dilate as everything takes time to adjust. I decided to call home to tell my family where I was. My dad took the call and told me to send him my current location so he can come and get me. I couldn't believe it. I wanted to cry. My dad can’t read a map, so how can he come and fetch me? Of course, he was just checking that I was all right! In my parents’ eye, I will always be a child. It’s about love and concern, so I must do my best to take care of myself. Not to be impulsive but be responsible. Hopefully, they would worry less about me.

我找了⼀個平地扎營，再⽤幾舊⼤⽯弄緊，這是在沙地扎營⼜沒有沙釘唯⼀的⽅淺。雖然入夜了但還沒餓，就沖杯熱朱古⼒加綿花糖。四灣光害少，是觀星的好地⽅，我枱頭看星，想起老爸說的⼀句話：「看不清星星，就嘗試閉上眼睛再張開，瞳孔張開的那⼀刻看到最多，⼀切都需要適應期。」想起要報平安了，打給老爸竟叫我把地點發給他，他來找我。我真的哭死不得，老爸連⾏⼭地圖都不懂，怎來找我，重點是找我幹嘛，我好好的。當然，我在他們眼中永遠都是⼩孩，⼀切都是愛與擔⼼，唯有盡⼒把⾃⼰照顧好，不任性有責任，讓他們放⼼⼀點。

The first night ended with a simple meal of rice noodles and hot chocolate. When I woke up at 6 am, I thought I would go back to bed as it was blurry, but an hour later when I looked up, the sun had risen. I was the only one on the beach. The waves were calm and there was a reflection over the water as the sun shone. At that moment, the site reminded me of Ha Pak Lai.

第⼀晚以簡單的⽶粉和熱朱古⼒作結。早上6點⽇出，起來時⽩茫茫⼀⽚，以為食⽩果就回去睡，怎料⼀個⼩時後再探頭查看，暖⿈⾊的太陽已升起來了，幸好沒有錯過。整個沙灘只有我⼀個，海浪平靜得如⽇出形成天空之鏡，有點像下⽩泥。

After a good night's sleep, I packed up and left for Cheung Tsui around 10 am. Unlike the paved Maclehose Trail, the journey to Tung Wan is rugged, with lots of ups and downs, so you need a walking stick to cushion your knees. It takes about half an hour to reach Tung Wan beach. The entrance to Cheung Tsui is relatively hidden and is located on the far-left side. On the way, a group of men asked for directions and said they would like to walk with me. I told them that I was taking my time hiking and reminded them that they should download the map of the area beforehand. Although I knew they weren't bad people, as a female hiker, I need to develop a high level of awareness and learn to protect myself.

⽇出後再睡了⼀回，到⼗點左右就收拾東⻄起程前往長咀。有別於舖好的麥⾥浩徑，前往東灣的⼭路較為崎嶇，⾼低起落⼤，負重走必須⽤⾏⼭杖借⼒，才不會傷到膝蓋。約半⼩時就到達東灣，上⼭前往長咀的入⼝較隱閉，位於最左⼿邊。途中有⼀群男⼠問路，還說想跟我⼀起走。我說我走得慢，提醒他們應預先下載⾏⼭地圖。雖然我知道他們不是什麼壞⼈，但⼀個女仔經常四處走，已訓練有⾼於常⼈的警覺性，學懂保護⾃⼰。

When I finally got on the road to Cheung Tsui, I looked back from the top of the peak and saw that I had trekked through four beaches in one go. Right here is a great Instagram spot!  90% of this road section has absolutely no shade so make sure you have adequate sun protection. Some male hiker friends thought it was not cool to wear hats and umbrellas and, in the end, they ended up getting sunburned. Safety always comes first!

終於踏上前往長咀的路，到⼭頂位置回望，竟⼀次過包攬四個灣，絕對是最佳打卡位置！這段路暴曬程度近九成，⼀定要準備防曬設備，我有些男性朋友覺得載帽⽤雨傘不帥，結果曬傷了變紅燒 豬，記得⼈安全才是羸家啊～

The cloudless sky in front blended with the blue sea, and the horizon met the sky. A view you simply can't get enough of. There is something magical about this place that makes you ponder. This is no need to rush, just follow along and enjoy beauty from your own perspective. This is what makes travelling alone so free and special.

眼前萬⾥無雲的天空，和湛藍的海⽔融為⼀體，天海交接的盡頭有條海平線，真的百看不厭。這裡有種魔⼒，令你走幾步停⼀步，不需要趕⾏程，隨⼼地跟從⾃⼰意願走每⼀步，⽤你獨有的⾓度欣賞和解讀眼前的美景，這就是⼀個⼈的旅程帶來的⾃由。

Cheung Tsui is a headland at the eastern end of Sai Kung extending all the way to the Pacific Ocean. The easternmost side of Hong Kong outside Tung Ping Chau and other outlying islands. I got carried away walking along the ridge and climbed up to the top of the high 98-metre peak. The path down was covered in loose sand and small rocks, so I had to sit down to rest. But, when I saw the flat grassy slope facing the sea in front of me, that was the camp site. I just had to keep going! When I got to the foot of the peak, I couldn't help but exclaim, "Tell yourself you can do it, and you will!”

長咀是⻄貢東端的岬⾓，⼀直延伸⾄太平洋，是東平洲等島嶼以外香港最東的極地。沿著⼭脊走太忘形了，不斷往上攀到了⾼98⽶⼤浪頭⼭頂，下⼭的路滿佈浮沙碎⽯，必須坐著下，但看到前⽅就是迎海平坦的草坡，即是營地位置，唯有硬著頭⽪走吧！到⼭腳後情不⾃禁說了句：「告訴⾃⼰做得到，就做得到！」

There is a seasonal water source near Cheung Tsui and luckily the water was clear and plentiful on that day, a small blessing for campers. I chose to camp on a lone spot and would have liked to walk around if it hadn't been so late in the day. But it does matter because the hills are here to stay! I had a good day out, cooked myself a simple hotpot with fatty beef and onion with white rice. There was a full moon. Lucky or what? Late at night, I put my head out of the tent and watched the stars, and soon I fell asleep.

長咀附近有季節性⽔源，幸運地當天⽔源清澈充⾜，對於露營者來說，這是⼀種天賜的⼩確幸。我選擇了獨霸⼀⽅的平地扎營，若不是天⾊已晚，真想四處走走，但沒關係，⼭是不會走的！ 那天好好慰勞了⾃⼰，煮了洋蔥肥⽜煲加⽩飯，還要撞正⽉圓之夜，我是不是受幸運之神眷顧了？夜深我把頭伸出帳幕躺著看星，不知不覺就睡了。

The sunrise in Cheung Tsui is the most beautiful I have seen. It felt so close and yet so far away. In the morning, I sat on the grass and made myself a cup of hot coffee, watching the sunrise and praying with emotion. I thanked God for allowing me to be in Hong Kong and giving me the strength to discover and promote these places, and to let more people know about the beauty of Hong Kong. After a light breakfast, I was able to walk around, starting with a little valley called Tai Long Tsui. Across the road are rows of rocks. I watched as the powerful white-headed waves lapped against the rocky shore, which would have killed me if I had fallen into the sea. I felt a sense of awe and admiration. It’s not about conquering nature, but rather to be grateful for being part of nature. Words of wisdom taught to a young hiker by a senior peer.

長咀的⽇出，是我⾒過最美的，觸⼿可及，這麼近，那麼遠。早上我拿著⼀杯熱咖啡，就坐在草上欣賞⽇出，感動得祈禱，感謝神讓我⽣於香港，賜我⼒量去發掘及宣揚這些地⽅，再讓更多⼈了解香港的美。吃了⼀個簡單的早餐，終於可以四處走走，⾸先走到⼀個名叫⼤浪咀的⼩⼭⾕，對⾯還有⼀個⽯排。看著強⽽有⼒的⽩頭浪，不停地拍打岩岸，若不慎掉進⽔裡，必死無疑，頓時有種驚嘆⼜敬偎的⼼，不要說征服⼤⾃然，應感恩⼤⾃然融納我們，這是⼀位⾏⼭前輩教我的。

Some of my predecessors came here for 5 days and 4 nights, I didn't believe them at first, but now I understand why. Because I simply can't get enough of this place. The topography of Cheung Tsui is unique. It faces the sea, has hills, lowlands, streams and plains. The view from the top of the 116-metre unknown peak overlooking Tuen Tsui to the left is a view of its own. I put my hand flat over Tuen Tsui to take a picture of it and the effect was interesting!

有些前輩來這裡渡過5天4夜，我起初不相信，但現在我明⽩了，因為根本百看不厭。長咀的地形很特別，它⾯海，⼜有海⼭、低⾕、溪流、平原向左走登上116米不知名的⼭頂，遠眺短咀，⼜是另⼀翻景像，我把⼿平放在短咀下拍照，效果很有趣呢！

I loved carrying weight. What a crazy statement! But it's true. My shoulders were sore and my feet heavy. I was breathing deeply and quickly. Yet it made me feel alive. Because it is a difficult trail, I was forced to slow down. I enjoyed every moment. It is only through trials and tribulations that I realised the true meaning of happiness. It is learning to cherish everything that is in front of me.

我很享受負重。這句話好像很變態，但真的，肩膀酸軟，腳步沉重，呼吸深⽽快。令我感到，活著。因為路途的艱辛，迫著放慢腳步，享受每⼀刻的美景，感謝曾經走過的腳印。經過磨鍊才體會幸福的真諦，學會珍惜眼前的⼀切。